Coffee Lab

Sao Paulo’s micro-roastery embraces the evolution of coffee culture in South America

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While the U.S. is going through an artisanal coffee movement, Brazil—already the world’s largest producer of coffee—is seeing a revolution of its own, with shops like Sao Paulo’s new Coffee Lab at its center. Working with one roasting machine and a crew outfitted in jumpsuits inspired by mechanics’ uniforms, Coffee Lab turns out almost 2,000 pounds of roasted beans per month in a former residence that’s been renovated into a bright, charming cafe. The beans are then incorporated into various flavorful blends served by the cup or available to bring home.

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The winner of Brazil’s first National Barista Championship, owner Isabela Raposeiras says that one of the keys to making excellent coffee lies in how she keeps the beans. She stores them separately from the bags in which they’re sold, which is actually a rare practice in the business.

Raposeira also maintains a strict and rigorous process in the roasting and selection of the beans. For the latter, she works to form relationships with Brazilian coffee farmers all over the country. “I look for sustainability, social responsibility and traceability,” she says. “When it was harvested, how long it took to dry, how long it rested and in which silos—everything has to be traceable. The flavor profile has to be very high-scale, and I look for nice people. Because even if they have it all but they’re not nice to talk with and aren’t generous, I won’t work with them.”

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Besides the standard espresso drinks, the Lab’s real draw is coffee prepared in an AeroPress, a system that exploits the full potential of the beans. This process involves steeping the coffee for around 10 seconds before forcing it through a paper microfilter, resulting in a smooth brew that’s velvety in taste and texture. Coffee Lab has plans to add the pour-over method sometime next year.

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Raposeiras takes her quest to show the depths of Brazilian beans far beyond her shop, traveling around the world to enter her coffee in international competitions. “These great roasters outside of Brazil, they’re always cupping my coffee and giving me amazing feedback,” she says. “They tell me, ‘I never saw Brazilian coffee tasting like this.'”


Grand Mayan Tequila

The 10-year journey of an ultra-aged tequila, from agave plant to hand-painted bottle
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Far from the bars where rowdy patrons slam down shots of pale liquid with a lick of lime and sprinkle of salt lives ultra-aged tequila, meant to be savored like a glass of cognac. In the case of Grand Mayan Tequila the depth of the extra añejo dark amber spirit reveals notes of nuts and chocolate, and a smooth, lingering finish.

Grand Mayan begins its 10-year journey in the agave fields of Jalisco, Mexico, where the agave tequilana weber is grown for 5-7 years before being harvested. The hearts of the plant are then slow-cooked in stone ovens before they go through a slow natural fermentation process. Extra care is taken in the distillation and filtering process, which takes place at the famous La Cofradia distillery. The liquid ages in American oak casks for at least three years before being bottled in their signature ceramic bottle celebrating the history of Mexico.

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Created by artisans in Mexico City, the lovely, diminutive decanter is hand-painted with blue flowers and orange designs—an appropriately elaborate vessel for the precious liquid within. The company produces only 3,000 litres of the spirit per year, which has become highly coveted by tequila connoisseurs for its flavor, rarity and special presentation. We experienced the enthusiasm firsthand during a recent visit to K&L Wine Merchants, where mere mention of Grand Mayan received quick notes of approval from every staff member within earshot. Naturally, we felt compelled to pour ourselves a shot and were able to savor it slowly, no lime or salt necessary.


Brooke Weeber

Watercolor illustrations combine Wes Anderson style with wildlife and folklore
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Brooke Weeber‘s delicate, darkly humorous watercolor-and-ink illustrations are one
part Wes Anderson, one part Edward Gorey. Fantastical wolves and deer roam freely
through pastel-tinted clouds and trees, sharing space with bearded strongmen and booze. Though the Northwest native admits that she’s a huge fan of Anderson, she cites Greek and Native American art as her primary influence.

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“I love the simple line figures painted onto vases and sewn into tapestries, and the use of geometric shapes and patterns [in Greek and Native American art],” says Weeber. “They also show an obvious appreciation for the natural world.”

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Weeber studied fine art at the University of Oregon, but moved to New York shortly after graduation to exercise her artistry in a completely different field—cake decorating. After four years on the East Coast, she began to miss the wildlife that plays such a prominent role in her illustrations and moved back to Portland. “Once I was more acclimated, I started to really appreciate the amazing things that New York had to offer—the culture and diversity alone is much harder to find in Oregon,” reflects Weeber. “But alas, in the end, the chaotic lifestyle wasn’t for me.”

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Besides illustrating album covers for local luminaries such as Blitzen Trapper and Loch
Lomond
, Weeber shows her work locally and sells it through Etsy. Her fruits and
vegetables calendar is a beautiful and practical guide for anyone who likes to eat locally and shop at farmers’ markets but has no idea when figs are actually in season. Her “Animals of the Pacific Northwest” print might also reassure anyone who has been duped by the latest crop of teenage vampire romances; werewolves are not endemic to this corner of the United States.

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Prices range from $4 for a greeting card to $50. For more of Weeber’s work, check her website or her
Etsy shop.


Ridley and Dowse

Design duo brings elegance and responsibility to etched jewelry
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Jewelry and accessories designer Vivienne Ridley and print designer Susannah Dowse teamed up on Ridley and Dowse and in just three years have collaborated with the likes of Topman, Boxfresh, Harrods, Ted Baker and the enigmatic Wayne Hemingway. The design duo has made a deliberate effort to keep operations in the U.K. under an unwavering commitment to low-impact production and social consciousness. Dowse explains, “We’re very concerned with creating beautiful things with as little cost to human rights and the environment as possible.”

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Recently, the designers have taken an industrial approach to their jewelry with a new line of etched pieces in steel and brass—hard metals that allow for sharper detail than something more malleable. Besides jewelry, the young brand’s repertoire encompasses paper goods, home and holiday decorations and more. The duo also recently styled a new room at the Pelirocco Hotel in Brighton, England, a self-professed “saucy stopover” for which Ridley and Douse applied varied skills to a grander canvas.

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As the designers continues to flex their creative muscle into new design categories—their website indicates handbags are in the works—we can only anticipate more thrilling collaborations and crossover projects to come. Their current stock of etched accessories is available through the Ridley and Dowse e-shop.


The New Artisans

Dossier37’s Olivier Dupon explores the handmade revolution in a new book on craft

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A long time buyer, retailer and blogger of artisanal products, Olivier Dupon has turned to print, documenting some of the most talented individuals and mesmerizing products of the handcraft movement. His book “The New Artisans” takes readers into the studios of influential craftsmen as they shape one-of-a-kind items that reflect their personal style. The majority of the book showcases the artisans and their studios (including CH favorite Esque), with the latter part organized as a directory in which products are arranged by type for catalog viewing.

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While the artists often draw inspiration from their region, reviving forms like “Danish porcelain glazing, Norwegian birchwood carving or Portuguese letterpressing,” Dupon insists that all of the artisans “have a creative force that is ingenious and knows no limits.” Dupon sees an intricate connection between the artisans and their customers, explaining that clients “wish to acquire products that have meaning, a singularity and a charge of human work.”

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The book serves well as both a collectible and as a reference guide, featuring a current crop of designers whose products are available online. The book is a must-have for arts-and-crafts types looking for inspiration or those just interested in learning about contemporary handmade production.

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“New Artisans” sells online from Amazon and Thames & Hudson.


Woodblock Chocolate

Portland’s micro-chocolatiers with a knack for DIY innovation

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A few years ago in the DIY paradise of Portland, Oregon, Jessica and Charley Wheelock began cultivating an idea. If home brewers and coffee roasters were dotting the national food scene with successful independent businesses, why were there so few independent artisanal chocolate makers? The two cobbled together repurposed coffee and grain equipment together with information culled from the Internet, starting Woodblock Chocolate a little over a year ago.

“Even Theo and Scharffen Berger are massive compared to what we’re doing,” said Charley on a recent sunny afternoon in his kitchen in south Portland. In the background, their melangeur—originally a grain grinder from India—whirs gently as it conches a fresh batch. A coffee roaster ticking on a sideboard releases the warm smell of home-roasted cacao beans. “There are maybe 20 artisanal chocolate shops in the country at our level,” added Jessica.

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Woodblock Chocolate currently operates out of the Wheelocks’ home. Although they work around the clock to produce chocolate at a rate of two kilos every 72 hours, demand has proven so strong that they’re currently in negotiations to expand their operations only a year after opening. “Our children beg us not to talk about chocolate,” laughed Jessica. “But they’re pretty psyched about our work.”

The couple’s success relies on three things: Charley’s handiness with machinery (he’s currently working on a homemade winnower prototype in the garage, designed to quickly husk the roasted beans), their shared background in design and, of course, their chocolate. The bars are denoted by percentage of cocoa and where the beans were grown. The salted 70% La Red D.R., from the Dominican Republic is smokier and tangier than the Mantuano, but both are just barely sweet, with a hint of fleur de sel.

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Charley brought in a tray of just-roasted beans and broke one open. The dark nibs taste so richly and strongly of chocolate that it’s hard to imagine they can need any further embellishment. “Sugar and these nibs, that’s all that’s in there,” Jessica said. If direct-sourcing coffee beans hasn’t yet changed the world, perhaps it’s chocolate’s turn to give it a try.

Woodblock Chocolate can be found in-store at Olympic Provisions, Cacao, and online at The Meadow.

Also on Cool Hunting: The Mast Brothers


Pique Mi Madre

Small batch Puerto Rican hot sauce packs heat in a great-looking bottle

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Hand-picked, prepared and packaged in the mountain town of Coamo, Puerto Rico, Pique Mi Madre is the best-looking hot sauce we’ve also enjoyed tasting. The family-owned company uses only the choicest habanero peppers to give Mi Madre its kick, nicely balanced by a short list of preservative-free ingredients grown locally in the lush mountainous environment.

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The clear glass bottle displays the large peppers and fresh ingredients that make up the devilish concoction, possibly acting as a warning to the more timid of tasters. For now Mi Madre is only distributed in Puerto Rico, but can be found online through Caribbean Trading for $8 per bottle.


CC Made

Artisanal caramels from California with distinct salt flavors

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Wanting to share her distinctly flavored caramel products with a broader audience, CC Made founder Cassandra Chen teamed up with her cousin, Emily Hou, to create their line of artisanal caramels. Once reserved for lucky family members, the California-based product is now sold in gourmet food stores all over the state. Offered in three variations—Bitter Sea Salt, Madagascar Vanilla and Himalayan Pink Salt—the caramel confections are each flavored by a different salt added to a base blend of cream, sugar, butter and corn syrup.

The creamy consistency of caramels delivers rich, mouth-watering flavor. Infused with the right amount of salt, these soft caramels do not overwhelm the palate with sweetness. The muted sugary tones melt away as quickly as the candy in your mouth does. The lightly bitter finish was satisfying to some, but those with a serious sweet tooth hoped for a little more body. Bitter Sea Salt emerged as our favorite, especially after we cooled the treats in the fridge (this trick helped the unique salt flavors come through and firmed up their consistency).

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While Cassandra’s focus is on the recipe, Emily is responsible for the confection’s bold packaging. As pleasing to the eyes as the caramel is to the tongue, each box is backed by a bright graphic that varies in colorways according to flavor. Resembling abstracted tree branches, the graphic card inserts can be removed from the box and reused.

CC Made can be found at these CA retailers or ordered online. A box of around 12 caramels sells for $6.50. If you’re craving caramel in other forms, check out their caramel corn and keep a look out for their line of caramel sauces available in select stores.