Makers in the Modern Era

A new catalog spotlights Portland artisans in their natural habitats

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In an effort to become more than just a shopping destination, Core’s flagship store, Hand-Eye Supply in downtown Portland, Oregon has taken the standard catalog to an artful new level.

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Photographer Christine Taylor is a long-time friend of Hand-Eye Supply manager Tobias Berblinger, and when she learned he was making a new catalog for the store—a project that would likely result in the requisite bland product displays and posed models—she proposed an alternative. Taylor enlisted Berblinger to instead round up local artisans, cooks and craftspeople, and she took portraits of them in their work environments, holding and wearing gear that they use themselves.

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The upshot, a catalog and lookbook called “Makers in the Modern Era,” creates an instant survey of Portland’s creative community as it looks every day. Taylor included traditional and non-traditional occupations, men and women, young people and old. The only thing they all have in common is that they all work with their hands. The commercial portraits have an arresting vintage feel to them, which Taylor pointed out are based on photographs from the ’30s and ’40s. “I used a hot flash, and the subject is just glancing up, as if you’ve just walked in on them,” she explains.

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The portraits are not purely documentary photographs, as the subjects are styled and posed, but the people, workshops and talent are real and so is the gear. Glass artist Andi Kovel of Esque Studio wears a pair of Ben Davis shorts, while Ping line cook Scott Whitus and kitchen manager Brandon LaRobadiere pose in the restaurant in a pair of Pointer Brand Denim aprons.

The catalog will be released 18 November 2011 at Hand-Eye Supply. To sign up for the newsletter and catalog, visit the store website.


Hellman-Chang, Today and Now

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Hellman-Chang’s ground-floor Brooklyn facility has the offices in the front and the shop area in the back. Until their upcoming expansion brings their own finishing facility online, they’re currently building the pieces in-house, then trucking them over to a finishing facility a few blocks away. What’s interesting is that the pieces don’t go from the shop area to be loaded onto a truck out back, as you’d expect; they go out through the front. The workers carry each and every piece through the office, meaning that even while on the phone or sending e-mails, Dan and Eric can eyeball the pieces as they go out of the door.

“We’ve made changes at the 11th hour, before it goes into finishing,” says Eric. “If we see something, some portion that we’re not happy with, we can go back in and make a change. The danger of a designer who doesn’t make their own product is, they’ll draw something on paper, send it out to someone to make, get it back and not be happy with it, because they’re not a part of that production process.”

Dan and Eric were kind enough to give Core77 their full story, describing how they built their business up from nothing into the highly successful brand that is the Hellman-Chang of today, with clients ranging from hotels to Hollywood, partners ranging from Showtime to Swarovski. A lot of their individual clients (whose names we cannot print here) include movie stars, CEOs, owners of sports teams, owners of department stores, and at least one Middle Eastern princess, who commissioned a Hellman-Chang table to be finished with a custom tabletop made from bone by craftsmen in India. (Sadly, the tabletop did not weather the transoceanic journey from India to Brooklyn very well, and a warped version of it is now holding up magazines and Snapples in the shop area’s break room. Undaunted, the princess ordered more from the Indian craftsmen, and three tops later, Dan and Eric received one good enough to fulfill the order.)

We knew the story of how they’ve gotten to where they are would be of interest to up-and-coming designers, and Dan and Eric are no strangers to the concept of lending a helping hand. As a highly successful business in their own right, Hellman-Chang makes it a point to help the creative community develop in what ways they can, as evidenced by the rear of their shop area, which they rent out to fellow craftsmen.

“Dan and I started at the co-op in Brooklyn, sharing space with a dozen other woodworkers and artists. We all traded ideas, discussed fabrication techniques and created bonds,” Eric explains. “That was an important part of Hellman-Chang’s early days as a Brooklyn-based studio. When we opened up our own space, we wanted to maintain that energy and sense of community, so we set aside around 2500 square feet for rental and brought many members of our old co-op with us. We all built the new shop together – it was a great bonding experience, and now they each have their own bench space where everyone can communicate, bond, and work together.”

Now that they’ve given us their history, it’s Hellman-Chang’s turn to tell us about some of their pieces. We asked them to walk us through some of their classic and current projects, so you can see what the company they’ve built is now capable of producing:

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MTV Ema 2011

Retour sur l’habillage très réussi des MTV EMA Awards 2011 avec un rendu en plans réels et en formes moléculaires très colorées. Une direction artistique par le studio Polynoid, et une production réalisée en collaboration avec Blacklist. A découvrir dans la suite de l’article.



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Infra

Deadstock film recaptures a decades-old conflict in a new exhibition
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As pro-am DSLRs and post production software make photography increasingly accessible, photographer Richard Mosse seems set on making his life more difficult. Armed with dead-stock Kodak infrared film—originally developed to detect camouflage for military aerial surveillance—Mosse ventured into the heart of the Congo to take some pictures. The forty-year-old technology was a cumbersome addition to his rural exploration, with Mosse playing the role of a time-traveling photographer under the hood of his camera. Consciously drawing from the photojournalistic tradition, Mosse’s collection “Infra,” on display at NYC’s Jack Shainman Gallery through 23 December, is a revisitation of familiar themes. He plays a dangerous game, trying to imbue life into themes so commonplace that viewers have become apathetic. The result is a new meditation on the problematic genre of photojournalism in regions plagued by conflict, one that uses art to decontextualize the familiar.

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The obvious narrative is simple. Hardened rebels stand among expanses of eye-popping magenta, a comic irony that contradicts the gravity of war. Mosse is using a discontinued technology to revisit an old yet ongoing problem, creating a dialogue between the generations of inhabitants affected by war and the omnipresent lens of western civilization. “Infra” forces the viewer to look with fresh eyes at images to which they have become blind. This experience holds true not only for viewers, but for Mosse as well. Without the perspective of his camera’s infrared film, Mosse experienced his subjects for the first time during development.

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Beyond the political ramifications of his work, Mosse’s images are compositionally stunning. His ability to find geometry in figures and landscapes is especially apparent in infrared, where the contours of trails and human limbs soberly interrupt the mass of color. While child soldiers supply the initial interest, Mosse’s landscapes are the surprise pleasure of the exhibition. Vegetation gives off a high amount of infrared light, which makes the Congo’s lush terrain a particularly gorgeous subject for Mosse’s lens. A stunning 3×3 series showcases the fragile structures of the Congo, lending valuable insight into village life.

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The project marks an ongoing fixation for Mosse and next year the photographer will return to document the texture of the Congolese topography. To catch his current work, check out the exhibition at Jack Shainman, on display through 23 December 2011. A monograph of Infra is also available from Aperture for $80.

Images courtesy of the artist and Jack Shainman Gallery, NY.


Cell Phone Airbags Not Such a Crazy Idea After All?

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Exactly a year and a week ago, we put forth the idea of having a cell phone designed with an airbag that would deploy in the event of a drop. Unbeknownst to us, Apple had actually patented a similar technology two quarters earlier.

Just coming to light now, as reported by the Patently Apple blog and now making the rounds, is this patent for a “Tunable Shock Mount with Micro Inflatable Bladder” that, unlike our somewhat silly suggestion, is more sensibly placed inside the phone:

Apple’s patent FIG. 5 shows a housing and a cover glass in cross sectional view having a tunable shock mount 505 disposed there between. The tunable shock mount could comprise of an inflatable bladder 506 filled with a fluid 507. Tuning could be done in various ways such as by selection of materials for the bladder and fluid, and by varying an amount of inflation. Hmm, think of it as a form of air-bag for portable devices.

Unsurprisingly, there’s no word on whether this particular invention will ever see the light of day.

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Research Centre for Université Pierre et Marie Curie by BIG and OFF

Research Centre for Université Pierre et Marie Curie by BIG and OFF

Danish architects BIG and Paris studio OFF have won a competition to design a research centre for Sorbonne Université Pierre et Marie Curie in Paris. 

Research Centre for Université Pierre et Marie Curie by BIG and OFF

The tilted glass facade reflects the famous Notre Dame Cathedral and surrounding Parisian skyline down into the surrounding square.

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The centre will combine research and business with transparent walls between laboratories and offices, which will be visible from a public staircase leading to the rooftop terrace.

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Light will filter to all floors through a central atrium containing informal meeting places.

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BIG and OFF won the competition in collaboration with engineers Buro Happold, consultants Michel Forgue and environmental engineer Franck Boutte.

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See all our stories about BIG here, more about Paris here and more about mirrors here.

Research Centre for Université Pierre et Marie Curie by BIG and OFF

Here are some more details from BIG:


BIG + OFF WIN THE COMPETITION TO DESIGN THE RESEARCH CENTRE OF THE UNIVERSITY OF JUSSIEU IN PARIS

BIG + Paris-based architects OFF, engineers Buro Happold, consultants Michel Forgue and environmental engineer Franck Boutte is the winning team to design the new 15.000 m2 research centre for Sorbonne’s Scientific university Université Pierre et Marie Curie in Paris.

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The new multidisciplinary research centre, Paris PARC, located between Jean Nouvel’s Institut du Monde Arabe and the open green park of the Jussieu Campus will become a significant addition to the campus, strengthening the international appeal and openness of the leading French University for Science and Medicine.

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The facility will bring together academic scholars and the busi­ness community, while re-connecting the university physically and visually with the city of Paris. The winning team was honored as the best design among proposals from MVRDV, Lipsky Rollet, Mario Cucinella and Peripherique.

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Paris PARC is located in the visual axis of the Notre Dame Cathedral in a dense context of university buildings from different historical periods. BIG proposes a building geometry that adapts to the specific conditions of all adjoining sides, optimized for daylight, views and accessibility.

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The three-dimensional envelope retracts from the neighboring facades, opens up towards the square of Institut du Monde Arabe and the park, and folds into a publicly accessible rooftop landscape, resulting in an adapted sculptural building volume situated between the emblematic architectural monuments of the university.

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“As a form of urban experiment the Paris PARC is the imprint of the pressures of its urban context. Wedged into a super dense context – in terms of space, public flows and architectural history – the PARC is conceived as a chain of reactions to the various external and internal forces acting upon it. Inflated to allow daylight and air to enter into the heart of the facility, compressed to ensure daylight and views for the neighboring classrooms and dormitories, lifted and decompressed to allow the public to enter from both plaza and park and finally tilted to reflect the spectacular view of the Paris skyline and the Notre Dame to the Parisians.” Bjarke Ingels, Founder, BIG.

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A central canyon provides daylight and a visual connection between laboratories and offices. In the atrium a cascade of informal meeting spaces lead to the public rooftop terrace and faculty club.

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A public stair to the rooftop offers glimpses into the activities of the laboratories which are divided by transparent walls throughout the building to ensure visual connections between the working spaces.

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The upper levels have panoramic views towards the Notre Dame and the skyline of Paris.

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“We propose a building that creates the optimum conditions for encounters and exchange among the academics and visitors of Paris PARC.

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Like a scientific incubator the new building will provide the physical environment for nurturing growth of cultures and sharing of ideas – through the internal mix of laboratories, research facilities and informal meeting spaces, and through a reunification with the public life of the city.” Andreas Klok Pedersen, Partner-in-Charge, BIG.

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The Paris PARC becomes the interface between campus life and city life by reuniting the Jussieu Campus with the city of Paris.

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The iconic view of the Notre Dame Cathedral is brought into the daily life of the building through the large panoramic windows while the façade towards the entrance square is slightly tilted, hence, a mirrored image of the Cathedral becomes visible at eyelevel on the square, connecting the building to its iconic location.

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PARIS PARC FACTUAL INFORMATION
PROJECT: Paris PARC
Research Centre for Université Pierre et Marie Curie by BIG and OFF

TYPE: Competition
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CLIENT: UPMC University
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SIZE: 15.000 m2
Research Centre for Université Pierre et Marie Curie by BIG and OFF

LOCATION: Paris, France
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STATUS: 1. Prize

Research Centre for Université Pierre et Marie Curie by BIG and OFF

BIG
Partners-in-Charge: Bjarke Ingels, Andreas Klok Pedersen
Project Leader: Daniel Sundlin
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Architect: Gabrielle Nadeau
Team: Camille Crepin, Edouard Boisse, Tiina Liisa Juuti, Alexandre Carpentier

Research Centre for Université Pierre et Marie Curie by BIG and OFF

OFF
Partners-in-Charge: Manal Rachdi, Tanguy Vermet, Ute Rinnebach
Research Centre for Université Pierre et Marie Curie by BIG and OFF

Project Leader: Daniel Colin, Antonio Rovira
Team: Akram Rachdi, Olfa Kamoon

Dezeen is five: most memorable festivals

Dezeen is five: most memorable festivals

Dezeen launched five years ago this week and we’re celebrating our birthday by looking back at our favourite stories, parties and projects over the last five years. We’ve travelled all over since launching in 2006 and here we’ve compiled the most memorable design weeks and festivals we’ve attended. 

Dezeen is five: most memorable festivals

One: Design Miami, December 2006

This was the first design event I attended after starting Dezeen (writes Marcus Fairs). I booked a cheap hotel, got on a plane and ended up at the second Design Miami collectors’ fair. Then I lost my passport. And had to move hotel. But it was still a fantastically exciting event – the whole “design art” thing was just starting up and rich people were beating down the doors to get into the fair and spend dollars (they actually were beating down the doors – it was surreal).

Designers used to wintering in cold Europe suddenly discovered they could instead flock to a December event with sunshine and an attendant art fair (Art Basel Miami Beach) to provide the necessary glamour complete with pool parties, limousines and penthouse cocktail soirees.

Design Miami set the benchmark that other fairs have struggled to compete with ever since and even though the fizz has largely gone out of the collectors’ market, it’s still about the most fun you can have at a design event.

Two: International Design Forum, May 2007 

These were still the boom years and when Dubai decided to throw a design event, it did it in typical Dubai fashion. We were all put up at the lavish Madinat Jumeirah – an Arabian Nights fantasy of a hotel with electric chauffeur-driven abras (traditional Arab boats) running on a network of artificial canals to whisk us to our rooms.

The International Design Forum was a conference rather than a fair, pulling in celebrity speakers including Rem Koolhaas, Marcel Wanders, Michael Young, Karim Rashid and many more to discuss how the Middle East could start to develop a design identity and economy of its own. The weirdness was enhanced by the conference venue: a fake Arab-style fortress with a fake galleon moored outside. Most bizarre of all was the alcohol-free VIP party, which featured possibly the worst DJ set I’ve ever experienced courtssy of DJ Kreemy (AKA Karim Rashid).

At night we sat on (artificial) palm logs on the (artificial) beach and watched the construction lights out at sea as workers built Dubai’s (artificial) offshore resorts including The Palm and The World. The conference was exhilarating, the discussions fascinating, but within a just over a year the crash brought the Dubai party to an end.

Dezeen is five: most memorable festivals

Three: Milan, April 2007

This was the penultimate Milan before the crash and the design world, buoyed by the influx of money from the art world, was full of confidence. “Limited edition” was the buzz-word and everything was getting enormous: a super-sized silver tea service by Studio Job, a gigantic Pinocchio figure covered in mosaic tiles by Jaime Hayon and great big mushrooms, eggs and nests at Dilmos. Established & Sons – who taught the Italians that there was more to an opening than warm white wine and a bit of Parmesan – were at the height of their party-throwing period.

It was great fun but it couldn’t last – by Milan 2008, things had got out of hand (example: Jaime Hayon presented a mosaic-clad aeroplane) and the excess became grotesque. In many ways the crash that followed came as a relief.

Dezeen is five: most memorable festivals

Four: Vienna Design Week, October 2010

Vienna Design Week is such a lovely festival that we keep going back (writes Rose Etherington), but last year’s fair was one of our favourites. We interviewed rock-and-roll designer Stefan Sagmeister in a deserted cinema, where he told us all about his diary. The week kicked off with a party at the impossibly grand Lietchenstein Museum, where Studio Makkink & Bey took so long to pipe their research project about sugar in icing all over the floor that one of them got locked inside.

The festival was compact and carefully curated, with thoughtful collaborations between traditional Viennese companies and young designers like Mischer’Traxler, Philippe Malouin and Mark Braun taking centre stage.

Dezeen is five: most memorable festivals

Above photo is by Patrik Engström

Five: Stockholm Design Week, February 2011

Stockholm Design Week is a Dezeen favourite due to its manageable scale, sense of community and hospitality, but the most delightful discovery of this year’s event had already been there for over 100 years. Emma Marga Blanche, Fredrik Färg and eighteen of their designer friends had stalked among dried grasses and stuffed animals to install their work in the 360 degree diorama of the Biologiska on the city’s museum island. Guests at the opening party wandered the creaking staircases wide-eyed, spotting clocks, chairs and lamps nestled next to wolves, sea birds and an enormous walrus looming out of the undergrowth.

We spent the next day trudging through driving snow then caught the last plane back to London before the runway sweepers gave up.

Tiger Translate Beijing: Double Vision

Graphic artists modify imagery of the metropolis
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Following an event in Hanoi earlier this year, Tiger Beer brought its free art and music series, Tiger Translate, to Beijing. The most recent installment brought together artists from East and West to collaborate on the theme of the metropolis. This time around, however, Tiger Translate tweaked the creative process and came up with “Double Vision,” for which four artists were each given photographs of Beijing to overlay with their graphic designs live during the Tiger Translate showdown.

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Michael Paul Young, Mojoko, Marcie Liu and Shadow Chen worked alone and in teams to apply their signature designs to shots of the city’s iconic skyscrapers, landmarks and everyday street scenes. The results were wildly diverse, with some works exuding a comic book feel and others taking inspiration by the free form and colors of street art.

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While the artists did get to preview the photos, they had to design on the fly, cut-and-paste-style. Each round lasted 20-30 minutes and audience members could watch the whole process go down on big screens. In all, almost a half-dozen images were produced for the event.

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Tiger Translate’s next events will be in Manila on 18 November and Sydney on 23 November 2011. To see more images, check out the slideshow below.


Two of a Kind: Sculptural Sound Installations by Nils Voelker & Zimoun

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We’ve posted about both Nils Völker and Zimoun in the past, I’ve only come to appreciate the parallels between their work when we received a couple e-mails—one from each studio—in close succession.

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Each artist specializes in partition- or room-sized sonic sculptures, and while each has his own approach and intent, I’m seeing a strong affinity between their overall projects and the thematic content—namely, emulating the natural world through cloyingly simple artificial means.

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The muted aesthetic is, of course, complemented by an essential auditory aspect that is meant to induce a Zen-like immersion in each sculpture.

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Völker takes a distinct abstract-organic approach, perhaps best demonstrated in his last work, “Thirty Six,” in which the content is largely dictated by the programming. As in the previous piece, “Forty Eight” is characterized by the cyclic inflation of the individual balloons, which simulates respiration though a short sequence of biorhythmic activity.

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Latest issue of Colors magazine dedicated to “shit”


Dezeen Wire:
 apparently, tomorrow is World Toilet Day and the latest issue of Colors magazine focuses on all things faecal, including the taboos, dangers and practical applications of excrement – Colors magazine