In a city steeped in history, innovation also abounds

Known for its cobblestoned streets, gothic buildings, steep closes and centuries-old castles, Edinburgh looks like a fairytale. But the Old Town and its charms are just part of this dynamic, ever-evolving city. And while there are plenty of essential, classic places to visit while in the Scottish capital—from drinks at the photo-friendly Witchery to the National Scottish Gallery, or an ice cream at Mary’s—there’s always something new to explore.

KORA
The most recent of Tom and Michaela Kitchin’s several eateries, KORA is named for the Greek goddess of springtime growth and agriculture (aka Persephone or Kore). The kitchen is helmed by head chef James Chapman—previously at one of our favorite gastropubs, also worth visiting, Scran & Scallie—who focuses on seasonal dishes made using fresh, local produce from sustainable Scottish suppliers, farmers and foragers. From elevated bar snacks to sophisticated starters, the menu consists of dishes like Perthshire pheasant schnitzel with roasted vegetables and roasted North Sea cod with potatoes and watercress veloute, but there’s plenty of plant-based options here too. With a decadent cheese selection, inventive cocktails and an extensive wine list, there’s so much on offer here—including a covetable kids menu.

Market St Hotel

This 98-room hotel could be the most conveniently located in Edinburgh. Directly opposite the city’s main train station, Market St Hotel boasts views across the city to 200-foot Scott Monument and is just a few minutes (walking or driving) from the Royal Mile—where you will find Mary King’s Close, Edinburgh Castle and much more. With a la carte breakfasts available daily, the Nor’Loft (a nod to the human-made Nor’ Loch, which is now home to the Princes Street Gardens and the aforementioned Edinburgh Waverley station) is the hotel’s rooftop hub. Looking across the city, guests can enjoy breakfast, afternoon tea or drinks and snacks indoor next to a fireplace or outside on the terrace. Rooms are comfortable and while not huge, they’re thoughtfully designed when it comes to atmosphere, aesthetics and pragmatism. For example, the windows (which are remarkably soundproof) feature black-out sliding timber doors rather than curtains, which take up very little space and look good whether open or closed. There’s also a free minibar. Bathrooms are well-appointed with plush towels, robes, vegan Votary products and even Dyson hair dryers and straighteners.

The Spence
For a cocktail or meal in a ritzy environment, head to The Spence—the restaurant and bar within the exclusive 33-bedroom Gleneagles Townhouse. The eatery exists in what was the banking hall inside the Bank of Scotland, a Georgian treasure and UNESCO World Heritage site. If the grand setting (with its views of the city, imposing columns, domed glass ceiling, opulent fabrics, marble, parquetry, tiles and lush palms) isn’t enough, the many dining options will be. With a kitchen run by Scotland-born Jonny Wright, The Spence offers breakfast, brunch, a la carte meals, afternoon tea, Sunday roasts and more. For those with a sweet tooth, keep an eye out for the indulgent dessert trolley. 

Rare Birds Book Shop

Part event space and part bookstore, Rare Birds is an endeavor dedicated to encouraging people to read books by women. Born from an online monthly book club (that now has thousands of members in over 23 countries) this brick-and-mortar location is a bright, welcoming place that’s brimming with literature. Located on Raeburn Place, it’s not far from Scran & Scallie and the Stockbridge Farmers Market, and hosts various events from workshops to conversations with authors and more.

Hey Palu

Aperitivo might not be the first thing that comes to mind when thinking about Scotland, but Hey Palu offers up an ideal end-of-day experience after hours exploring the city. Located on Bread St, not far from Edinburgh Castle, this bar boasts an extensive amari collection (about 60 different options) and can mix up classic and modern cocktails with aplomb. There’s also wine, beer, alcohol-free options and bar snacks like burrata, salumi, olives, cured meats and more—all set within a playful, laidback atmosphere.