Chris March on the ‘Pop Culture Phenomenon’ of Project Runway and the Power of Television

Fashion and costume designer Chris March learned a lot from Project Runway. Reaching the final round of the beloved reality competition show during its fourth season was not only a major personal and professional accomplishment but also a crash course in the power of television. “The second the show started, I started getting all of these e-mails, and then I would get a million hits a month on my website,” he tells us in this second installment of our three-part Media Beat interview. “I had no idea what television could do.” Click below to hear more about his experience on Project Runway, why he considers the show a “pop culture phenomenon,” and what it all means for the future of fashion design.


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Part 1: Inside Chris March’s Madly Fashionable World

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Inside Chris March’s Madly Fashionable World

You may know Chris March from season four of Project Runway, when he stole the show with bold designs, snappy yet endearing one-liners, and innovative materials (who needs traditional textiles when you have human hair?). Since then, the San Francisco native has kept busy designing outrageous costumes and one-off creations for everyone from Cirque de Soleil performers to Meryl Streep, who wore a Chris March-designed dress to last year’s Academy Awards. His latest project is Mad Fashion, a new Bravo series that follows March and his colorful crew as they create custom ensembles for the likes of actress Jennifer Coolidge, shoe designer Ruthie Davis, and, on tomorrow’s episode, New York nightlife promoter Susanne Bartsch. We sat down with March recently for Media Beat, and in this first segment of our three-part interview, he offers us a peek inside his creative process and his New York-based design studio, and reveals the secret that is hidden in all of his designs.


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Seven Questions for Work of Art Judge Bill Powers

Bill Powers purchased his first work of art—a Terry Richardson photo of “ToeJam the Clown”—in 1998, shortly after taking the editorial helm of Blackbook. Since then, he’s built an art collection that includes works by Richard Prince, Elizabeth Peyton, Dana Schutz, and Irving Penn; opened New York’s Half Gallery with partners Andy Spade and James Frey; and co-founded Exhibition A, the online art hub that offers affordable editions by some of the big names on Powers’ own walls. Tonight he is back on Bravo to dispense more good-natured yet constructive criticism on the cable network’s Work of Art: The Next Great Artist. So which of the new contestants should we keep an eye out for? “We’ve got Michelle, who has worked for Marilyn Minter and had also been an assistant to Josephine Meckseper. It’s interesting to see someone with that background,” he says. “Or Kathryn, who went to Yale grad school for photography, versus a toymaker, The Sucklord. I think it really is a nice spectrum.” We chatted with Powers about the reaction to Work of Art, the judging process, and what’s in store for the new season (KAWS!).

1. How would you characterize the reaction—particularly that of the art world—to the first season of Work of Art?
I understand people’s skepticism. I mean, it is reality TV, right? Personally, I was really flattered at how many contemporary artists I admire watched the first season, whether it’s Cecily Brown or Rob Pruitt or Jeff Koons or Rachel Feinstein. That meant a lot to me that those people would watch and get into it. People said that the show reminded them a lot of grad school and that a lot of the personalities and the work that was produced was reminiscient of that. There’s always somebody getting naked. There’s always somebody tackling social issues. And there’s a photographer, who’s probably better suited to commercial photography, making fine art pictures.

2. Are there certain aspects of season two that you think will surprise people?
I was always surprised by the range of materials employed, and what somebody can make in four or five hours is pretty impressive. And I would ask viewers to remember that it’s a lot of pressure to say, “OK, here’s the theme of the show this week, now make something and we’re going to show it tomorrow as if we’re picking people for the next Venice Biennale.” I feel like people at home or on blogs sometimes can be looking at this work as if someone had a year in their studio to make it. They have five or six hours sometimes to make what you’re seeing. I know that’s part of being a part of a competition series, but to see something that you like and that someone made in a few hours? Most working artists today spend weeks if not months putting together a piece. I think that people are, if I can borrow a term from Jerry [Saltz], “demonstrating radical vulnerability” by their participation on the show.
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Sneak Peek: Work of Art Season Two Premiere


(Photo: Andrew Eccles/Bravo)

Work of Art is back! Tonight the Bravo reality competition series returns for its second season of searching for “the next great artist” with a fresh crop of 14 contestants mentored by the ebullient Simon de Pury, who continues to give Tim Gunn a run for his money in the scene stealing department. Host China Chow joins veteran judges Bill Powers and Jerry Saltz to evaluate and critique the works produced in response to creative challenges, and tonight’s is a doozy. The artist-contestants are charged with breathing new life into a piece of “bad” art—chosen from a hilarious assortment that includes a painting on velvet of a wizard, a ceramic frog, and a mirror-flecked pastel abstract that we swear we’ve seen on the wall of a faded Palm Beach hotel. The guest judge is none other than photographer Mary Ellen Mark.

If this season opener is any guide, the producers (Magical Elves, with Sarah Jessica Parker‘s Pretty Matches) have realized that it can be awfully enjoyable to watch people make art—as opposed to, say, cook up and plate an entree in the Top Chef kitchen—particularly if they’re good at it. And so the bulk of the episode is concerned not so much with personality-baring confessionals or judging huddles but with following the artists’ diverse paths to their final works. Art and design lovers will delight in the tight shots of making, from drawing and painting to sculpting elaborate paper creations and deconstructing a cat statuette. The range of the artist-contestants is part of the sophomore season fun. “I think it’s interesting to have people outside the bubble, so more self-taught artists versus grad school/MFA kids, and that’s an interesting clash on the show—to see outsiders versus insiders,” Powers tells us. “I also think it’s interesting to pit sculpture against photography against painting, because can you say that this painting is better than this sculpture? That’s another interesting dialogue.”

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What Not to Wear‘s Stacy London Takes Your Fashion Questions

With over a decade of fashion and styling experience as an editor at Vogue, correspondent for Today, and co-host of TLC’s What Not to Wear, has Stacy London ever given out bad advice? Like saying those white pantyhose were a don’t, only to see someone like Gwen Stefani make it a why-didn’t-I-think-of-that do?

“No, I’m never wrong,” London said jokingly in our Media Beat interview. “No, not about other people’s style. But my style? Oh, boy, have I made mistakes.”

“Everybody makes fashion mistakes… and they’re not even really mistakes. There is no failure [in fashion],” she continued. “The fact is fashion and style really is about confidence. You can’t make a mistake if you’re confident enough in yourself to pull things off.”

London also answered some questions from our @mediabistroTV followers on jeans for real women, the white watch trend, and how to dress for “day to night fabulousness.”

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Part 1: Stacy London: ‘It’s not just about the clothes. It’s about the psychology behind them’

Part 3: Wednesday, London reveals her biggest career challenge and gives tips to aspiring fashionistas.

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Sundance Channel Gets Quirky

Having made Rhode Island School of Design president John Maeda‘s list of “the world’s seven most powerful designers,” crowdsourcing pioneer Quirky now has its own television show. The product development company, which brings two new consumer products to market each week, is the subject of a six-part series that premieres tomorrow night on the Sundance Channel. Each hour-long episode follows Quirky founder and CEO Ben Kaufman and his team as they evaluate and select a product idea submitted by their online community to advance through the development process—a collaborative affair that involves in-house engineers as well as input from Quirky users, whose contributions can earn them a financial stake in the product. Sundance Channel promises “an entertaining look at what’s just ahead of the curve,” and having introduced products ranging from a smarter toilet plunger to a double-barrelled travel mug, we predict many exclamations of “Why didn’t I think of that?” Here’s Kaufman on his path to Quirky:

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Thank You, Mood! Inside Project Runway’s One-Stop Fabric Shop

A fresh season of Project Runway is upon us, and Thursday’s episode will feature the contestants’ first field trip to Mood Designer Fabrics. (The season nine opener required them to rework their own pajamas, assisted only by a smattering of Mood-supplied trimmings and dye. It was not pretty.) The reality competition show’s favorite one-stop materials shop, home to 40,000 square feet worth of fabric and a Boston terrier named Swatch, recently got its close-up in The New York Times. Writer Adriane Quinlan visited the Sauma family, which has owned Mood since 1993, to watch last week’s Project Runway premiere and talk textiles:

What began as a family store has become an empire with a wholesale division, a home décor wing and a Web site started last year to supply internationally. The expansion is partly helped by the show, which does not pay to film in the store in exchange for mentioning Mood on air. (Yes, designers do pay for the goods they carry out.)

When the show began, [Philip] Sauma said, it was “a bit weird” to see the workplace onscreen. Now he just notices things to improve: shelves to be moved, bolts to reorganize. Still, it is always strange to see the host, Tim Gunn, petting his brother’s dog, Swatch. “Sometimes he sees himself on television,” Jack Sauma, the store’s founder and Philip’s father, said of the dog. “And he moves his head like, ‘Who was that?’”

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Around the Art and Design World in 180 Words: Triumphant Returns Edition


Recent releases from the Monacelli Press written by (from left) Marc Kristal, Eva Hagberg, and Donald Albrecht and Thomas Mellins. (Photos: Monacelli Press)

They’re ba-ack! Today we look at news of returns and do-overs:

  • The Monacelli Press is independent again. According to Publishers Weekly, founder Gianfranco Monacelli has bought back the 17-year-old art and design publishing house, which Random House acquired in 2008. Terms of the deal were not disclosed, but Monacelli will continue to use Random House as a distributor.
  • Actor-cum-performance artist James Franco is returning to General Hospital. His character, the creatively named “Franco,” will appear in an episode that will air in September. According to a spokesperson for the soap opera, Franco’s latest turn will be part of a long-term plot line that could have him reemerging later in the season.

  • Earlier this week, jewelry designers Monique Péan and Eddie Borgo were awarded Tiffany & Co. Grants, part of a three-year partnership between the Council of Fashion Designers of America/Vogue Fashion Fund (CVFF) and Tiffany & Co. Péan and Borgo, both former CVFF finalists, received $150,000 and $100,000, respectively. All jewelry designers who participated in the CVFF since its inception in 2004 were eligible to apply for the grant.

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  • ITVS Celebrates 20th Anniversary with Free Online Film Festival

    Looking for an edifying alternative to summer movies (all of which seem to star Jason Bateman and/or wizards)? Grab some Sno-Caps, dim the lights, and click on over to the Independent Television Service’s Indies Showcase. Launched today, the free online film festival will offer up 20 documentaries by independent filmmakers as ITVS celebrates 20 years of funding, presenting, and promoting award-winning documentaries and dramas on public television and cable (we have them to thank for PBS’s Independent Lens series). Each full-length program will stream for free for three days on the ITVS website. Among the documentaries on deck are Paul Fierlinger’s Still Life with Animated Dogs, King Corn, Hip-Hop: Beyond Beats and Rhymes, and Please Vote for Me, which follows a third-grade class election in Wuhan, China (a talent show and a debate is involved). Look for the full film line-up to be posted in the coming weeks. The ITVS Indies Showcase runs through September 22.

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    Jeff Lewis and Friends Return for New Season of Flipping Out, Now with More Design

    Bravo’s design-fueled summer programming train rolls on! As Martyn Lawrence-Bullard and Mary McDonald continue their delightful scenery chewing over on Million Dollar Decorators (last night’s episode included a priceless shot of McDonald taking delivery of an Edible Arrangement, which instantly convinced her that the sender/would-be client was not a good match), quiptastic house flipper and interior designer Jeff Lewis returns for a fifth season of Flipping Out. In anticipation of tonight’s premiere, we spoke with Lewis and his trusty assistant Jenni Pulos (who has a second career as a rap artist for the toddler set) about the Jeff Lewis design ethos, what’s in store for the new season, and whether they see a Million Dollar Decorators/Flipping Out crossover special in their future.

    This season, the focus of Flipping Out shifts from flipping properties to designing spaces. How would you describe the Jeff Lewis Design aesthetic?
    Jeff Lewis: I definitely lean more contemporary and my looks are definitely more streamlined. And I like big open spaces. I don’t really like a ton of furniture. I’m not one of those people that over-accessorizes. That’s a little trick of the trade that designers do which I don’t. I work out a different fee structure, so, I don’t mark up everything that I buy for my client. That’s the reason that you’ll see a lot of homes that are over-accessorized and over-furnished.

    [Some designers] hang something on every single wall and they put something in every corner. Well, news flash—they mark up every single thing they buy. They have a vested interest in over-selling furniture and accessories to you. So that’s the problem. I suggest working out a flat fee with a designer or an hourly rate. You don’t want to do the mark ups because then, they—I mean not all of them, but a lot of them, obviously—the more furniture they sell you the more money they make. So that’s why you’re seeing, when you open up these magazines and you say, my god, I can’t even walk around that room!

    Jenni, how would you describe Jeff’s style?
    Jenni Pulos: Jeff, I would like to say that I think that you possess a warm relaxed modern style. You like that? I just filled in the “relaxed” this morning. What do you think?

    Lewis: Well, when I did the kitchen for House Beautiful that’s what it was called. They basically said that what I do is “soft modern.” It’s basically taking a very modern space but warming it up. Because that’s the problem for people that love contemporary design. It does tend to feel chilly, and it’s not always so family-friendly.
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