Hasta La Ideas

A Portland designer applies sculptural origami to women’s clothing

A first look at Liza Rietz designs does not immediately confirm if they’re clothes or sculptures. Even on the hanger, layers of silk, wool and linen flow out in broad planes, making soft points in the delicate fabric. On a model, the clothes seem to float above and around the body. “I’ve always been fascinated by the sculptural qualities of fabric,” Rietz told CH in an interview at her studio. “I suppose that’s why they look like origami. That’s the art of manipulating two dimensions into three dimensions.”

Despite her current career path, Rietz never studied design. Instead, the Washington native graduated with a degree in sociology and anthropology from Portland’s Lewis & Clark College in 2000. “Maybe it’s like learning how to paint,” she said. “If you get formal training, it’s easy to get stuck in a niche.” She bartended and waited tables before falling in with Holly Stalder and her vaunted former store Seaplane, which was a launchpad for many of Portland’s current crop of young clothing designers. “I brought in some skirts and a woman from Adidas bought one,” Rietz said. “It was great having that support in learning how to go from D.I.Y. to making something store-quality—to make designs that are applicable to a range of body types, in size runs that real women can wear.”

Rietz cites travel as a source of inspiration. A trip to China and Thailand in 2009 resulted in an architecture-inspired collection full of fins and batwing sleeves. Cross-pollination also seems to be a likely wellspring of ideas; she recently returned from Berlin, where in addition to showing at Berlin Fashion Week, she also toured as part of the Portland band Tu Fawning.

Small orders of Rietz’s designs can be found in places as far-flung as London and Washington, D.C. However, the best way to purchase her work would be at her Portland studio or on her Etsy page.

Bright and beautiful scarves inspired by California dreaming

By Miranda Ward

Recently-launched brand Stolen Sunday makes youthful scarfs for men and women inspired by the enchantment of California dreams, proclaiming their desire to “remind you that life is pretty damn magical sometimes” in their cheery manifesto. Their handcrafted headpieces are cut in Los Angeles and sewn in San Francisco using organic cotton.

For Winter 2011 Stolen Sunday has released their latest innovation in layering comfort with the “scoodie,” a hybrid scarf and hooded sweatshirt that wraps around your head and neck. The creative accessory’s lack of sleeves prevents the problem of unwieldy bunching underneath a jacket, while the hood adds style and protection from the elements.

These vibrant wraps can be found in San Francisco boutiques Wonderland SF and Swankety Swank, and online from Stolen Sunday directly. Prices range $45 to $65.

Style-driven footwear for rainy days and winter weather

The key to staying warm and dry through the wetter, colder months starts with well-designed footwear. Luckily, the world of wellies has expanded beyond the basic rubber model to encompass a wide range of style-focused boots still durable enough for a solid trek through the elements. Weather the stormy season with one of our favorite styles.

Givenchy

Made in Italy, Givenchy’s solid rubber rain boots are a waterproof take on the classic riding boot. The simple black lace-ups pack enough style for wear even when the sun is shining. The Rider Rainboots sell from Ssense for $295.

Burberry

For a rain boot with some edge, look to Burberry’s Mid Buckle boot. The synthetic uppers closely mock real leather, giving the boots a sophisticated mien without sacrificing function. The rain boots sell from Zappos Couture for $250.

Sorel

The classic duck boot gets freshened up with a bright pop of purple on its rubber base. Face rainy days and cold temperatures with the cheery, effectively transitional lace-up, which features the same durable all-over waterproof construction and Thinsulate insulation. The Women’s Chayanne Lace Boot sells for $115 at Sorel online.

Woman by Common Projects

Another take on the traditional duck boot explores a more sophisticated look without sacrificing the essential elements that make the style a winter standard. Woman by Common Projects has produced a beautiful navy-on-brown lace-up style that looks elegant and tough all at once and, most importantly, manages to keep feet warm and dry in superior style. The boots go for $570 at La Garconne.

Sperry

A leader among boat shoes, Sperry knows a thing or two about waterproofing. Keeping with their nautical approach, the Pelican Tall Boot Lug features classic blue and white stripes on the outside and a micro-fleece lining for added warmth. The Sperry boots sell online for $70.

Ilse Jacobsen Hornbæk

Danish designer Ilse Jacobsen is revered in Scandinavia for making high-quality, hand-assembled boots from natural rubber. She’s brought her activity-driven tall lace-up boots stateside, and each pair features a cotton fleece lining, heat insulating interiors and non-skid rubber soles. The Hornbæk boots sell from Need Supply for $199.

Loeffler Randall

Minimalists will delight in LR’s latest rain boot—the slip-on bootie looks just as sleek as the dress shoe it replaces on a wet commute, with a slip of a wedge heel to keep hemlines safe. The rain slip-ons are available at Loeffler Randall online for $150.

Seavees for Madewell

The California brand collaborated with Madewell on fashion-infused replicas of the boots worn by San Francisco naval yard workers. The mid-height lace-ups come with molded soles and a light fleece lining to keep feet warm and comfortable while traipsing around in the rain.The Off Shore Mid Rain Boots are available online only for $115 a pair.

Joules

Combining soft, mid-weight insulation with a low-rise bootie silhouette, the Wellibob Welly does its duty as a highly functional, wearable shoe-boot. For the days when some splash protection is needed, but you can’t commit your outfit to an all-terrain knee-high, the Wellibob, with a shiny eggplant finish, pulls on nicely. The wellies sell through Joules for £32.95.

Rachel Comey

The designer has amassed a devoted following for her shoes, which she seems to ace whether they’re summer sandals or winter boots. As the elements intensify, Comey’s Baxter Boot offers the brand’s signature understated aesthetic with a solid foundation of a hearty winter-ready insulated lace-up. Priced at just $196—significantly lower than the designer’s typical range around the $500 mark—the boots have sold fast and are already hard to come by. Gargyle is taking pre-orders on larger sizes, as well as names for a waiting list on any returns, while Creatures of Comfort has a few pairs left.

See by Chloe

Glossy navy blue rubber is accented by deep gold laces and a subtle side pocket in these See by Chloe rain boots. Finished with a sturdy rubber sole and a plaid lining, the boots have just the right touch of college prep for walking to class or to the office on rainy autumn days. They sell from Otte for $215.

Tretorn

Created for Tretorn’s 120th anniversary, the Sofiero 120 År PVC-free natural rubber rain boots are a warm solution to cold rainy days with a micro-fleece lining, sock liner and insole. The red laces at top keep water from coming in while adding to the femininity of the sturdy hiking-style boot. Sofiero 120 År sell from Tretorn for $85.

Checking in with the “nose” behind the Italian label’s first perfume

As anyone who’s sought a signature scent knows, selecting the right one is much harder than it seems. From the balance of notes and allusions to something that stands out from the crowd, perfume bears the burden of channeling the most poetic aspect of personal style. Imagine then the task of coming up with Bottega Veneta’s first scent.

That was the job put to Michel Almairac, the famous perfumer behind Bottega Veneta Parfum. His solution elegantly marries the heritage of the label with the history of perfumery itself by inventing a leather smell based on the tanneries in Grasse, France—the world’s perfume capital since the 18th century that’s also home to many tanneries, due to the abundance of water. The scent evokes this essence of Grasse as well as the luxurious aroma of well-tanned leather, an important distinction Almairac made from poorly-tanned leather that can “smell like a goat.”

This particular leather scent (which now solely belongs to Bottega) is the big innovation, but we also learned a new bit of perfume vocabulary when we had the chance to meet Almairac in Paris recently. Chypre, based on the smell of Cyprus, defines the structure of a scent that pairs citrus with florals and more woodsy base-notes. After consulting with Bottega’s Creative Director Tomas Maier (no outside tests were done), this chypre takes form with Italian bergamot, Indian patchouli, Indian Sambac jasmine and Brazilian pink peppercorns.

The result of this “weaving of scent,” inspired by the brand’s level of craftsmanship, as Michel puts it, “smells like Bottega Veneta.” It has a remarkable consistency that, for those of us who have been wearing it for a few weeks now, has elicited many compliments. This strength comes from the kind of absolute elegance for which Maier is known.

Comparing the art of making perfume to cooking, Almairac describes how it’s the little details that make the difference when it comes to blending ingredients that compliment each other perfectly, creating a sense of mystery by combining new things. While he explained that sometimes you can’t oversimplify and need to add more, that was not the case with this perfume. The other key factor comes from new methods of extraction and manufacturing scents, as well as artisanal, quality ingredients, including handmade bases—resulting in what is the most expensive perfume Almairac has made in terms of ingredients.

Having such a success on their first outing, Bottega Veneta seems poised to create more scents in the future. It’s easy to imagine a less floral version for men from this base, and Almairac confirmed there’s “room for a family.” For now, we have to be content with this perfume, which is now available at stores in a gorgeous Murano glass bottle. The line sells from Bottega’s newly-revamped site, starting at $65 for a 30-milliliter bottle.

Contributions by Ami Kealoha and Evan Orensten

A hunting inspired coat re-issued from Eddie Bauer’s archives

New from Eddie Bauer’s Fall line of heritage garments is the Camoweave Forester. The handsome coat pays tribute to its hunting-inspired predecessor first introduced by Eddie Bauer in 1965, using the same superior construction techniques and materials. The unique, shadow plaid pattern is woven into the fabric—rather than printing directly on top—using yarn in 14 different colors, blended together to create the distinct camouflage.

The 11-oz. wool and quilted lining deliver plenty of warmth for those days when your shell won’t do. When it comes to wet weather, it should be noted that the jacket relies only on wool’s natural, but somewhat minimal, water repellence—to preserve the fabric’s purity, the finish was left uncoated and untreated.

For utility, the jacket features four cargo pockets on the front, and a larger, dual-entry field/game pocket on the lower back. This kangaroo pouch style pocket is often found on traditional hunting jackets for extra storage that won’t get in the way.

The Camoweave Forester dropped today at Eddie Bauer online, and follows in select stores in early November. At $399, think of it as an investment.