Geek Chic
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Girando tra gli rss di oggi, vedo questo cronografo e penso: fichissimo! E’ la riedizione del primo modello disegnato da Ferdinand Porsche nel 1972. Quando però leggo che ne saranno prodotti solo 911 esemplari e il costo sarà all’incirca di 7k dollari, capisco che l’occhio mi cade sempre sulle cose belle-e-impossibili.
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Behind the scenes with the NYC-based footwear brand’s founder and designer Ce Ce Chin
Proving that fashion and function can indeed go hand in hand, 80%20 stands out as a chic, everyday answer to the often painful women’s heel. What started as a girl’s spin on what sneaker-heads and skaters were wearing has grown into a much more mature and fashion-focused footwear line for ladies. While the Vans-inspired styles have evolved into a more formal silhouette, the emphasis on comfort and wearability has remained a constant. To get a better feel for this continuous progression we recently caught up with founder and creative director Ce Ce Chin at her studio.
Looking out onto midtown Manhattan, Chin’s Fashion District design studio maintains a sense of order, with only a few inspiration boards hinting to the free-flowing creativity at the heart of the operation. Neatly tucked away behind closet doors is an endless collection of sample shoes, swatches and objects—offering somewhat of a parallel to the designer’s signature style, the Original Hidden Wedge.
Chin describes her design process as “non-linear”, mocking up ideas, sketches and digital models as she goes, and using her unique masking tape technique. Covering current shoe styles in tape allows the designer to create a 3D drawing board of sorts, turning her ideas into a model she can hold in her hands before resorting to an actual prototype. The freedom of adjustment during the design process allows Chin and her team to toy with ideas and colorways, keeping 80%20’s playful attitude going from ideation to production.
As shown in her design methods, Chin says she has always learned better through experience than by regimented task-driven assignments, a style that ultimately led the designer from her hometown in the Midwest to experiment with design in NYC, where her grandfather and father had grown up. Fifteen years later, Chin—who lives in her grandfather’s third-generation Chinatown apartment—has made a name for herself among what she calls the male “shoe dogs”.
Chin sees a future of exploration and expansion for 80%20, aiming to introduce more silhouettes and materials for upcoming collections, like Hudson Bay-inspired colorways and cork-molded footbeds on a high-heeled platform for Fall 2012. As far as inspiration goes, Chin says she prefers to “build based on what works, but shaped on the current vernacular.” With this in mind, the line seems poised to continue introducing innovative new styles that still follow the 80%20 mantra of designing for everyday use.
For a closer look at the 80%20 design studio check the gallery below.
Seven bright picks channel the coming season
With Spring dawning in half the world—including at CH HQ in NYC—we’ve been inspired to brighten up our warmer weather attire to the match the early blossoms. After searching for Spring-ready neckwear, we have gathered together a selection of ties and bow ties that best convey the renewed energy of the season.
Using Thomas Mason’s coveted fabrics, the “Cameron Bow” ($62) accurately captures the ethos of spring and summer sun. Microcord cotton adds texture and natural striping to this New York-made accessory.
For a something cheerful but still subdued, this pastel striped tie ($58) hits all the right notes. Made by Monitaly, the cotton construction is cut for a slim silhouette and is casual enough to wear without a jacket.
You can’t go wrong with a traditional rep tie. Ernest Alexander’s version ($72) uses micro-stripes to break up the green and blue dominance, and lines the silk exterior with a somewhat sturdier and more laid-back chambray.
Fit for the office and sunday brunch alike, this brightly hued royal twill tie (£95) is screen-printed by hand in England. The luxe brand’s simple polka dot design injects a sense of fun into a look that can still pass as conservative enough.
The “Artist Jacquard” ($98) from Shipley & Halmos balances the dominant pink with a navy that comes through in the furrows. Printed across the silk are renditions of a painter hard at work, for a thoughtful and humanizing little riff on the critter motif.
The bold hues of this knitted silk tie ($190) fall in line with the Italian brand’s trademark mastery of prints, but in a slightly unexpected form. The squared end stands out, and lines of tan anchor the colorful spectrum against a formal ensemble.
Part schoolboy geek, part retro badass, this cotton check tie ($88) is made from vintage 1960s fabric. Plus, the ultra-limited run of 12 ties comes lined with a charming shamrock pattern on the underside.
Pink seersucker serves as the cornerstone to any spring tie collection. Hand-sewn from woven English cotton, the texture of Alexander Olch’s take ($140) softens the shirt-and-tie look with casual preppy spirit.
Il camo di Stussy finisce sull’estiva Sea Star di Converse. La collaborazione è prevista in uscita per il 16 marzo.
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Su Kickstarter delle volte si trovato progetti interessanti, pronti per essere prodotti come questo The HuMn Wallet.
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A limited-edition backpack benefiting the Million Trees NYC initiative
With a solid repertoire of collaborations and accessories under his belt, designer Matt Singer is now using his creativity for good. For his latest venture, he has teamed up with the recently revived Rivendell Mountain Works on a limited-edition backpack benefitting the Million Trees NYC initiative.
Handmade at the foothills of the Washington Cascades, the durable Cordura nylon bag sports a custom Million Trees patch, and thoughtful features like an adjustable sternum strap and padded shoulder straps help it withstand any number of daily outings.
As an urban dweller, Singer was motivated by the impact of nature on the quality of a city’s atmosphere, and plans to donate a portion of the bag’s proceeds to support the non-profit organization’s citywide mission to plant and care for one million trees in all five boroughs. The backpack is now available in limited numbers exclusively through Matt Singer’s online shop for $225.
Wales is making jeans again
Along with a beloved old T-shirt or a perfectly worn leather jacket, jeans often have more of a backstory than a regular article of clothing. The recently launched Hiut Denim encourages the wearer to officially document their relationship with their pants from the moment they first put them on. Built into each pair is a HistoryTag—a unique code enabling an online memory bank for jeans. By setting up a special account, people can upload pictures and stories about their adventures in denim. The archived information about each pair is maintained even as they’re passed from one owner to the next.
Interested in the stories behind the clothing we wear, David and Clare Hieatt founded Hiut—the name is a combination of “Hieatt” and “Utility”—to bring denim production back to their hometown of Cardigan, Wales which previously housed the U.K.’s largest denim factory producing 35,000 pairs a week. When businesses began moving operations east, the plant was closed, leaving a talented workforce behind.
With the new Hiut factory, the Hieatts hope to regenerate the local craft industry and in doing so, employ about 400 people in Cardigan again. Operating under the motto, “do one thing well,” Hiut has Grand Master denim cutters and machinists focusing their efforts on making just two styles of jeans—regular and slim—in a choice of two denim fabrics, organic from Turkey and selvage from Kuroki, the artisanal Japanese denim mill.
In the face of fast mass produced fashion Hiut is taking a more focused approach, celebrating each individual pair of locally made jeans—and encouraging those who buy the wares to continue the process with the HistoryTag. Hiut is available on the brand’s website, where you can pick your denim (organic or selvage), and then your cut (regular or slim), at prices starting at £130 a pair.