Quote of Note | Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri


Looks from the fall 2011 Valentino ready-to-wear collection.

“With this [most recent] collection, the idea from the very beginning was not to do ‘editorial’ things just for the sake of it. Not clothes that were a photo, but clothes. However, at the same time, we wanted classic fashion—meaning, when a customer enters the store, she finds a coat or a dress that is made so well that it takes her back to what we consider fashion in the most traditional sense of the word. Because in recent years, the image of fashion has prevailed over traditional fashion, meaning sartorial detailing and workmanship. But fashion designing means creating something using a special technique that might not emerge in a photo, but when you look at it up close, you see that it’s stylish. That’s a cultural problem. Clearly we live in a time where image is more important than content.”

Maria Grazia Chiuri, co-creative director of Valentino, in an interview with Giancarlo Giammetti published in the May issue of Interview magazine

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Quote of Note | Paul Kasmin


Chilean artist Iván Navarro’s “The Armory Fence,” a large-scale, site-specific neon installation exhibited by Paul Kasmin Gallery last month at the Armory Show.

“I’ve always liked a mix of things, and I don’t mind if it’s new or old. Iván [Navarro] told me: ‘I’ve got an idea, but you’re not going to like it.’ The Armory Fence took me a while to digest, but it does make sense: he grew up under a dictatorship, so there’s always a political current in his work. It’s an unbelievably strong statement: and although I’m delighted, it did take a while…I mean, if the production hadn’t been up to scratch it would have been a pretty big failure.” —Gallerist Paul Kasmin in the April issue of The Art Newspaper

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Quote of Note | Chris Dercon

“For me, museums don’t necessarily have to be museums. One of my favorite cultural institutions is the Cinémathèque in Tangier. Another is the National Institute of Design in Ahmadabad, India. Incredible! A museum, a school, a library, a marketplace, and an archive. To plan a new museum, we need to look at them and at science labs, factories, and archives. We need to be daring and courageous and to take risks—really interesting risks.” –Chris Dercon, newly appointed director of Tate Modern, in the April issue of W

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Quote of Note | Chandler Burr

“Perfume is not the bottle; it’s the perfumer. We’re going to be purist about that. It’s about the olfactory artist, not the company. It’s not Issey Miyake’s L’Eau d’Issey—which is an ingenious perfume, by the way—it’s Jacques Cavallier’s. It’s not Robert Piguet’s Fracas, it’s Germaine Cellier’s. Her construction of Fracas was the first great Brutalist work of art.”

-Scent critic Chandler Burr, who in his new role as curator of olfactory art at the Museum of Arts and Design is organizing “The Art of Scent, 1889-2011.” Slated to open this November, the exhibition will allow visitors to experience (via diffusion machines) ten seminal perfumes from the last century in a special exhibition space designed by Toshiko Mori. There will be no bottles.

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Quote of Note | Marcel Wanders

marcel.jpg“I’m ready to design a mosque. I think that would be something important to do. I think, in design, we want to do things which have meaning, which are important. The meaning can be in making design, but also in the subject where you put your attention. The world’s been getting smaller. People are more and more close to each other. I think it’s more important we show respect for each other and show ways to do it. I think it would be respectful. We can live together and be respectful, and not share ideas. I would love to do that. I think I will.”

-Designer Marcel Wanders, on a dream project, in an interview with Julie Scelfo in The New York Times

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Quote of Note | Michael Eisner

“The media have as much opportunity today as they have ever had. The creation of content has never been more important. It’s wide open for all sorts of new creative ventures. The dissemination of content to every nook and cranny of the world has never been easier. It has gone from paintings on cavemen’s walls to the ability to digitally beam movies, television, news, information, and music into every cave in the world. The need for entertaining, informative, provocative, and important ideas has never been close to what it is today. I don’t think it’s all about user generation of material or democracy in media. It’s still about human beings coming together and deciding what is and isn’t interesting.” —New-media entrepreneur Michael Eisner, former CEO of Disney

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Quote of Note | Bill Moggridge

“When you go to designers’ houses, you see a lot of kitsch. Instead of living the work they do, they like to see the exaggerated edges of how things can go. And kitsch has a kind of shameless enthusiasm that allows you to revel in these values, like excessive decoration or the overly bold use of color, that are not quite respectable. It’s the same sort of appeal as postmodernism, except kitsch is done with such self-consciousness. It’s fun for its own sake. You can’t say it’s elegant or beautiful, but you can say it’s a lot of fun.”

-Industrial designer, IDEO co-founder, and Cooper-Hewitt president Bill Moggridge in Sunday’s The New York Times, with regard to his love of vintage trailers

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Quote of Note | Details Editor Dan Peres

“‘Redesign’ has become a dirty word in magazine publishing. Our new Body section has been in the works for four or five months. It’s like adding on to a house—in this case, it’s a gym. Let’s say, it’s going really well, the gym looks amazing, and then you look at the rest of the house, and you think, I just kind of want to change this, and do small tweaks. That’s what we did to the rest of the book—gave a little polish to the existing architecture.”

Dan Peres, editor-in-chief of Details, in today’s issue of The Daily Front Row

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Quote of Note | Kevin Lasko

Marina [Abramovic] wanted an exploding volcano, but it’s very difficult to make something that will explode on command. We tried some things with Diet Coke and Menthos, but we couldn’t get a controlled explosion. We decided the best way to get hot and cold was a traditional baked Alaska.”

Kevin Lasko, executive chef at New York restaurant Park Avenue Winter, on Abramovic’s “Volcano Flambé,” in The New York Observer. The $20 “multisensory culinary intervention” is available at the restaurant through March 20.

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Quote of Note | Philip-Lorca diCorcia

“I don’t shoot digitally. But ever since the second shoot I did for W, the negatives have been scanned and manipulated. Pascal Dangin [Box Studios] did the scanning, compositing, and printing. That step changed everything. Instead of going to elaborate ends to hide my lights and to manage every detail of the image, we did a lot of the work after in the computer. To this day I don’t know how to use Photoshop, because I don’t use it in my personal work. But almost all the images done for W were—at the very least—retouched. Often they were recomposed. I work with a tripod. All the frames from one set up are the same. What varied were the subjects, the expressions, and their positions within the fixed frame. It’s easy to change and recombine the framed elements. It’s hard to do it well.”

Philip-Lorca diCorcia on the eleven photographic portfolios, completed between 1997 and 2008 in collaboration with former W creative director Dennis Freedman, that are collected for the first time and reproduced in their entirety in ELEVEN (Freedman Damiani). Selected images from the W projects are on view through March 5 at David Zwirner.

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