Friday Photo: A Tree Wows in London


(Courtesy Claridge’s)

What do you get when you mix a swashbuckling designer, a famed Parisian fashion house, an iconic London hotel, and a squad of shimmering starfish? Dior creative director John Galliano‘s Christmas tree for Claridge’s. Unveiled yesterday in the lobby of the Mayfair landmark, the ocean-themed creation replaces a traditional holiday fir with a giant (papier-mâché) branch of pink coral ornamented with silver leaves, opalescent anemones, and shiny seahorses. “I wanted to create an underwater fantasy,” said Galliano, who first worked with Claridge’s last year on a more climatically appropriate “frozen” tree that combined icicles with chinoiserie. This year’s “Under the Sea”-themed design is a tropical tour de force that brings a bit of Palm Beach to the hotel’s art deco lobby. “Both Claridge’s and Dior are synonymous with with timeless glamour and impeccable heritage,” said Thomas Kochs, general manager of the hotel. “And we look forward to celebrating the festive season together.” Santa, however, is expected to keep his distance from the Dior tree, for fear of being impaled on its coral spikes. The tree will be on display at Claridge’s until January 5.

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Macy’s Confirms UnBeige Report of Karl Lagerfeld Collaboration

Macy’s has officially confirmed our exclusive report of an imminent collaboration between designer Karl Lagerfeld and the national retailer. “Karl Lagerfeld holds a unique place in the world of fashion, an icon who is the ultimate modernist,” said Terry J. Lundgren, chairman, president, and CEO of Macy’s, Inc. “Through the decades, his style and vision have marked the history of design. It is a tremendous honor to bring his inimitable perspective to our fashion customer.” The collection will debut in approximately 250 Macy’s stores and on macys.com in September 2011. According to a report in today’s issue of WWD that credits UnBeige with breaking news of the deal, the Lagerfeld line is part of a new designer initiative that Macy’s will launch in February. Other designers and brands slated to create capsule collections for the national retailer include London-based Kinder Aggugini, Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith, Calvin Klein, and Versace.

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Yoox.com Partners with Design Magazine Case da Abitare on ‘Xmas Craft’ Offering


Chris Kabel’s “Money Vase,” made from bronzed coins, and Oskar Zieta’s steel “Plopp” stool are two of the items that will be featured in Yoox’s “Xmas Craft” collection.

The glad retail tidings continue, this time with news of a design collaboration that has more immediate gifting potential. Global fashion and design e-commerce powerhouse yoox.com (which we have to thank for many a discounted Rick Owens topper and for feeding our Fornasetti addiction) has teamed with Italian design magazine Case da Abitare on “Xmas Craft,” a curated collection of design objects that will be offered exclusively on yoox.com later this month. Think of it as a highbrow, design-savvy version of Oprah’s Favorite Things.

The holiday partnership, which the Bologna, Italy-based Yoox Group is slated to announce tomorrow, will celebrate innovative approaches to traditional materials with a focus on what happens when industrial processes get a handcrafted twist. Look for linens designed by Valérie Barkowski for Bandit Queen alongside BTC’s handspun brass pendant lights and Oskar Zieta‘s award-winning powdercoated steel “Plopp” stool (pictured above) for Danish manufacturer HAY. And for your holiday table, there is porcelain a-plenty, including cups and saucers by Marco Bertolini for DMK and elegant platinum-coated bowls by Tsé Tsé Associées. Case da Abitare editors selected each item to “tempt and delight the discerning Christmas shopper,” according to Yoox. Design fans in 67 countries will have through New Year’s Eve to splurge.

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EXCLUSIVE: Karl Lagerfeld Developing Lower-Priced Line for Macy’s

Just in time for a certain famous Thanksgiving Day Parade comes news that is sure to elicit gratitude among fashion fans: designer Karl Lagerfeld will soon unveil a fashion venture with Macy’s, multiple sources told UnBeige. We hear that the national retailer has inked a deal with the Karl Lagerfeld brand, owned by private equity firm Apax Partners, for an affordably priced ready-to-wear line that will range from jeans to gowns. The new line, slated to launch with a collection for fall 2011, is also expected to include a major online component, with e-commerce as a key distribution channel.

Speculation about the venture has been rampant since early September, when Lagerfeld announced that he would not be showing his signature collection during Paris Fashion Week and instead had a fast fashion line in the works. At the time, Apax said that they were talking with several potential partners for the new “masstige” play. “I wanted this for a long time,” Lagerfeld told WWD in September. “I prefer to work in another way. I can’t compete with Chanel. I don’t want to be the poor child of myself. This has been my vision for years.”

Our calls to Apax and Macy’s were not immediately returned, but according to our sources, production of the new accessibly priced Lagerfeld collection will be handled by Li & Fung, the Hong Kong-based sourcing giant that has been on a deal spree in recent months. The global supplier, which has worked extensively with Macy’s, recently inked agreements to produce lines for stylist Rachel Zoe, Sean “Diddy” Combs, and celebrity couple Jennifer Lopez and Marc Anthony (for Kohl’s).

A matchup of Lagerfeld with Macy’s and Li & Fung recalls other deals masterminded by Apax, which acquired Karl Lagerfeld SAS as part of its 2006 buyout of Tommy Hilfiger. The private equity firm paid $1.6 billion to take Hilfiger private and in 2007 sold the company’s global sourcing operations to Li & Fung for $247.8 million in cash. That same year, Apax-owned Hilfiger signed an exclusive distribution agreement with Macy’s for men’s and women’s sportswear. Apax has since cashed out of Hilfiger—selling the business to Phillips-Van Heusen for $3 billion in May of this year—but retained control of the Lagerfeld brand.
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Gap Goes PUBLIC with Pop-Up Bike Shop at San Francisco Flagship


(Courtesy PUBLIC and James Mueller Photography)

Since resolving its brand identity crisis, Gap has been busy expanding its horizons. In recent weeks, the mega-retailer has opened its first wholly-owned stores in China (two in Beijing, two in Shanghai) and Italy (on Milan’s Corso Vittorio Emanuele) and announced plans to enter South America next fall. But the Gap store we’re most excited about is a temporary outlet right down the road from the company’s San Francisco HQ. It’s a seasonal pop-up shop (above) that features the covetable steel-framed bikes and gear of PUBLIC, the enterprise started in May by Design Within Reach founder Rob Forbes.

“I’ve been watching the growth of city bikes in Europe for almost ten years and seeing the changes here, such as the Bloomberg initiatives in New York,” Forbes told us. “I’m passionate about urban design and mobility, and want to help us get over our car addiction.” And so PUBLIC was born. The San Francisco-based company specializes in practical bikes designed for cities. Its classically styled models come in a growing range of gorgeous hues—a tangerine inspired by the ’68 Vespa that is a fixture in the PUBLIC offices, a pale blue purloined from a vintage Porsche—and boast frames that are guaranteed for life and “ride like butter.”

Word of snazzy urban bikes travels fast in the Bay Area, so it was only a matter of time before Gap came calling. “Their team visited our South Park space, liked our vibe, and asked if we’d work with them on the pop-up,” explained Forbes. “They are developing a bike share program with their staff also, and we align with their internal mission.” The deal was sealed by PUBLIC’s new more affordable models (the recently launched Public A7 and J7 each sell for $495, compared to the $550 to $890 price range of other models) and its quirky assortment of non-bike merchandise, including pretty air pumps, art, antimicrobial striped socks, and wooden deer heads.
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Quote of Note | Alber Elbaz


(Courtesy H&M)

“It was an exercise for me to understand what is the relationship between high fashion and fast fashion. Ninety-five percent of women cannot afford [Lanvin], so let them have a taste. It’s like if I was living in a palace and opened some doors and said, ‘Have tea with me, taste the food.’ It’s not about giving away something that belonged to someone else. It’s about sharing.”

-Lanvin artistic director Alber Elbaz on deciding to partner with retailer H&M on the Lanvin for H&M collection, which goes on sale tomorrow at H&M’s North American stores

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John Galliano Inspires Macaroons for Ladurée, Designs Christmas Tree for Claridge’s

Book your Eurostar ticket now, because fashion designer John Galliano has whipped up two terrific projects in Paris and London. First up for the Dior creative director is a delicious collaboration with legendary Parisian pâtissier Ladurée. Reportedly a passionate fan of macaroons, Galliano now has one of his very own. Ladurée’s John Galliano macaroon is a pink-on-pink confectionary play on the rose and ginger notes of the designer’s new fruity-spicy fragrance, Parlez-moi d’Amour, itself inspired by an Edith Piaf chanson. Boxes of the fashionable indulgences are covered in sepia paper printed with lines of flowing script (tear-stained love letters, bien sûr) along with Galliano’s signature blackletter and a couple of vintage-looking stamps.

Meanwhile, back in his old stomping grounds, Galliano is once again creating a spectacular Christmas tree for London’s Claridge’s hotel. This year, he’s decided on a whimsical “Under the Sea” theme—but don’t expect the screaming bold hues evoked by the Disney song of the same name. “I wanted to create an underwater fantasy and have mixed pink corals, seahorses, anemones, and jellyfish, all glinting like gem stones, swimming amidst the silver leaves,” said Galliano. “I hope we create something as sumptuous as its setting and that this inspires a truly luxurious escape and a very festive season at Claridge’s.” We’ve posted Galliano’s just-released design sketch below. The hotel will unveil the festive fir on November 25, and it will be on view through January 5.

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The Rug Company Reveals Alexander McQueen Designs


Courtesy The Rug Company

A field of fingerprintish feathers, a troubling of hummingbirds, military-flavored brocade, and signature skulls. These are the opulent designs conjured by Alexander McQueen for The Rug Company. The collaboration—three years in the making—was one of the last projects the fashion designer took on before committing suicide in February, and the results are reminiscent of the stunning gilded warrior looks that filled what would be his final collection. Handknotted in cashmere, wool, and silk, and in some cases woven with shimmering golden threads, the rugs each took six to eight months to produce. The Rug Company, which has collaborated with the likes of Paul Smith, Vivienne Westwood, and Tom Dixon and recently picked up a Veranda Art of Design award, now plans to take the McQueen designs on a global tour. First stop: Miami, where they’ll be exhibited at the company’s Design District showroom during Art Basel Miami Beach and Design Miami in early December.

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Google Commits $5 Million to Digital Media Grants

From wind turbines and self-driving cars to mail goggles and consumer genomics, Google likes to experiment. Its latest foray into the world of ideas focuses on digital journalism, an ever-evolving and increasingly graphics-rich area for which the search giant has just committted millions. Google announced yesterday that it will give $5 million in grants to non-profit organizations that are working to develop new approaches to journalism in the digital age. “Our aim is to benefit news publishers of all sizes,” wrote Nikesh Arora, Google’s president of global sales operations and business development, on the company blog. “We hope these grants will help new ideas blossom and encourage experimentation.” First up: the Knight Foundation, which has received a $2 million grant to support its media innovation work (you’ll recall their Knight News Challenge initiative). Googler Marissa Mayer co-chaired the foundation-sponsored Knight Commission on Information Needs of Communities in a Democracy, which made recommendations to extend broadband access to all Americans, and on media literacy. As for the other $3 million in up-for-grabs grant money, Google plans to invest it in creative journalism projects outside of the United States. Details are expected early next year—so bloggers, now may be the perfect time to open a Belize bureau.

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In Brief: Kanye West Collaborates with Vanessa Beecroft; LVMH Stocks Up on Hermès

  • Ignore the skeptics and believe the hype, fellow aesthetes! “Runaway,” Kanye West‘s new video-cum-short film is an artistic triumph. Filmed in Prague, the 34-minute extravaganza follows West and his ethereal winged girlfriend (Selita Ebanks) on a journey through forests, fires, and feasts, with stops along the way at a modernist crash pad and an impromptu ballet performance. The ballerinas and prevailing Venetian luminousity are early hints that Vanessa Beecroft is involved, and indeed, she is credited as art director on the film, which also showcases the inspired cinematography of Kyle Kibbe and costumes by Phillip Lim and Martin Izquierdo. And keep an eye out for West’s winks at other favorite artists, such as Gregory Crewsdon. We are seriously considering investing in a dedicated jumbo flatscreen for UnBeige HQ that will play “Runaway” on a loop. Watch the full video below.

  • With his star Louis Vuitton brand losing some of its ultraluxe luster in recent years whilst raking in ever larger monogrammed sackfuls of cash, LVMH honcho Bernard Arnault has long eyed the apex of luxury brands: Hermès. Known for its equestrian roots, rich artistic heritage, and uncompromising dedication to quality, the French firm is controlled by the Dumas family, but keep your eye on Monsieur Arnault. Through LVMH, he’s quietly accumulated a 17% stake in Hermès (14.2% directly and an additional 2.9% via derivatives), whose shares have skyrocketed in recent months. “LVMH says it has no ambitions beyond holding a minority stake,” writes Matthew Curtin in today’s Wall Street Journal. “But LVMH has put a marker down should more family members change their minds.”
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