Hasta La Ideas

Kingston University graduate Marie Cunliffe has used copper-foiled lace and satin woven with metal to imitate colours and patterns from aerial photography for this fashion collection.

Marie Cunliffe added a copper-based metal to fabrics for her graduate collection, allowing her to sculpt materials in contours similar to land forms seen from above.

“My inspiration for the collection was taken from aerial images of the earth, focusing on the unusual patterns that the contours create,” Cunliffe told Dezeen.

“The idea was to look from an alternative perspective – a new viewpoint. I translated this into silhouette, print and texture.”

Cunliffe worked with textile designer Lynn Tandler, wove the satin with metal fibres.

This created a shimmering material that amplifies the effects of light and shadow on the garments.

“The way it responds to light is really interesting and relates back to my initial research imagery,” said Cunliffe.

She also foiled lace from French company Sophie Hallette to give the traditional material a metallic sheen.

Outfits are layered using garments with different fabric densities, pairing draped silks and lace with more structural materials.

Widened trouser legs and lengthened sleeves create exaggerated shapes, and a floor-length dress features a stiffened hem that folds back on itself at the front.

“I wanted dramatic silhouettes,” Cunliffe said. “I then used both light and heavy weight fabrics, so the results were varied – the stiff fabrics creating large shapes, and the lighter making soft, fluid ones. I wanted to create a contrast.”

Cobweb wool has been used to add texture to the collection. One dress is screen printed with the aerial imagery collected during her research.

The palette of muted greys, greens, oranges and purples is also taken from photographs of seas, forests, deserts and mountains.

Cunliffe studied womenswear fashion design at Kingston University in London. Photography is by Scott Carthy.

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