Insight from the Japanese designer on his debut NYC store and its on-site research library

Japanese designer Yuki Yagi’s brand, vowels, recently landed in NYC and has become a haven for those looking not just to be inspired by archival fashion, architecture, design and media, but by the well-curated and tailored selection of pieces he has designed for the community. vowels specializes in high-quality pieces—and craftsmanship and attention to detail set their garments apart. Serving as both showroom and library, vowels New York has redefined the modern shopping experience. We sat down with Yagi to chat about how he brought this vision to life. 

Can you tell us what made Bowery the perfect location for vowels’ first US store?

We chose Bowery as a good balance between SoHo and the LES for building up a community. We wanted to be downtown as a lot of our community and collaborators are based in that area so Bowery was the perfect place to connect with new consumers and our existing community.

We’re intrigued by your in-store research library concept. Can you tell us more about the vision behind it and what types of materials you’ve curated for it?

The concept is to provide a space where people can dive deep into creative inspiration and knowledge. It’s meant to be a resource for anyone but especially those in the fashion, design and art worlds where customers and creators alike can explore and refine their style and ideas. We’ve curated materials like vintage fashion magazines, rare design catalogs, historical photography books and art publications that reflect the brand’s unique perspective and concepts. We also include contemporary resources related to current creators and trends, ensuring the library is always a place of fresh discoveries.

The idea of incorporating a research library into a streetwear store feels so innovative. What role does research play in the creative direction of your collections?

For my designs, I often begin by delving into the materials available in our research library. When people come into the store, they can see that many of the books are marked with notes that show exactly which books I used to design pieces in our collections.

Do you see this library as a space for customers to explore and be inspired, or is it more of a resource for the design team? Perhaps both?

The research library is a place for customers to explore and to be inspired. The office in Tokyo has its own selection of books used for seasonal design inspiration. As a team, we use the library to enhance our designs and grow on the method of Shu Ha Ri (守破 離), where one must master the fundamentals of a creative practice before breaking those rules and reconceiving the form.

With sustainability becoming a key focus in fashion, does your research library include any special focus on sustainable materials or design practices? How is vowels approaching sustainability within your collections?

Our approach to sustainability, particularly is rooted in supporting local economies and craftsmanship. By working with local manufacturers and artisans in Japan, we are not only ensuring high-quality production but also helping sustain the economic ecosystem of these regions. This, in itself, is a form of sustainability—one that preserves traditional methods, provides jobs, and keeps communities thriving. Additionally, the high quality of the products ensures they last much longer, reducing the need for frequent replacements. This longevity contributes to sustainability, as well-made garments not only have a smaller environmental footprint but also offer lasting value to the customer. By combining craftsmanship with durability, we focus on creating pieces that stand the test of time. 

Many streetwear brands cater to a specific subculture or community. How would you describe the community you’re building through vowels, both in Japan and now here in New York?

We’re creating a brand that hasn’t really existed before, shaping it as we go, and discovering what it means to us and those who resonate with it, both in Japan and now in New York. It’s an evolving journey that reflects the uniqueness of this moment.

As someone who straddles two vibrant cities—Tokyo and NYC—how do you see these two worlds influencing one another within the streetwear scene?

I think that Tokyo and New York each have their own vibe, but they influence each other in a natural flow. Tokyo’s precision and detail mix with New York’s bold creativity, creating something fresh. Both cities are all about self-expression, and that constant exchange keeps streetwear evolving, with each taking and reworking what they find from the other.

What do you hope people will take away from visiting your Bowery store? Are there any special experiences or exclusive collections in store for those who come by?

I hope people will frequent vowels, given that we are continuing to build out programming efforts for the space. That said, we’ve hosted lectures and screenings tied to the library’s contents, the architects behind the design of our space ANY [Michael Abel + Nile Greenberg[, and more casual record listenings and hang outs.

Finally, if you could sum up vowels’ philosophy in three words, what would they be?

 Never stop learning.