Hasta La Ideas

Models ripped the fronts off their shirts to reveal glittery confetti at Hussein Chalayan‘s Autumn Winter 2017 show, which explored ideas surrounding identity and Greek folk culture.

Chalayan, who has shown his collections in Paris for over a decade, returned to London Fashion Week with his Act to Form presentation at Sadlers Wells theatre.

Made up of loose silhouettes as well as feminine dresses, the collection aimed to explore our sense and formation of identity.

“Our sense of universal personhood is in a state of flux,” said the designer’s show notes. “Act to form is a collection inspired by looking at new, isolated individuals that the current world order is generating.”

“The collection whilst attempting to uplift and empower also marks a sense of fake celebration of various events taking place around us.”

For the most part, Chalayan looked to Greek folk culture. A series of black striped pieces featured small hand-drawn Ancient Greek Sculptures on plinths, while a custom Jacquard textile depicts an Ancient Greek city map fused with the Manhattan grid system.

Classic coats came complete with built-in waistcoats, and loose carrot-shaped pants had wide wrap belts around the waistband.

“The Balkan era of Greek folk culture is used as a symbol of historical empowerment throughout the collection, connecting today’s sense of world citizenship to the ideals of personhood stemming from European Philhellenic sentiments of the early 19th century,” said the designer.

The final looks included a series of tailored shirts, each of which were filled with confetti-like stuffing that tumbled out when models removed a portion of the garment.

Chalayan is renowned for his experimental fashion designs. His previous collections have included two-in-one dresses that transform with a single tug and garments that emit laser beams. The rest of the collection comprised black-and-white designs, floral patterns, and red- and camel-coloured outfits made from lightweight fabrics.

Last year, the designer debuted his first self-directed dance production at the same theatre, which was split into 18 chapters that each explored themes of identity, displacement and invisibility.

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