How to Get Noticed as a Designer: Seven Tips from Influential Curators, Retailers and Creative Directors

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Over the last few weeks, I’ve been lucky enough to talk with ten of the most important names in industrial design—not designers themselves, but the people who make design careers by manufacturing, exhibiting and selling original work. I asked them each a handful of questions about how they discover new design and how emerging designers can turn heads and gain recognition. These influential curators, retailers and creative directors were quick to share their insights (and in some cases their personal e-mail addresses), telling us how to get a chair into production, a piece into MoMA’s collection (or its stores) and your name on the tip of Gwyneth Paltrow’s tongue.

As a coda to the series, I’ve sifted and sorted the choicest bits of wisdom into seven simple pieces of advice. While our interviews focused on how to make it as an independent product designer, many of the gatekeepers I spoke to have experience across disciplines. Their pointers should help any designer looking to pitch ideas, make industry connections and win big commissions. Take one, or take them all—and good luck!

1. Be an interesting human being
For the curators, retailers and creative directors I spoke to, the most sought-after product may be a compelling, well-rounded designer. Yes, they’re looking for good design. But just as importantly, they’re looking for someone with an interesting story, who will be doing good work over a long career. “Design is for people—and it’s from people,” says curator Odile Hainaut. “I think the designer has to be interesting as a person,” echoes Ambra Medda of L’ArcoBaleno. “I’m interested in them, not their thing,” says Herman Miller’s Gary Smith. So be that interesting, memorable person. Be curious, be adventurous, show you’re multi-dimensional, and have more to offer than just your portfolio.

2. Concentrate on relationships
Some of the people I interviewed love e-mail; others hate it. Some don’t mind being approached in person; others find that deeply annoying. Unfortunately, there’s no formula for reaching out to industry leaders. But you can’t go too far wrong as long as you focus on making personal connections first, before talking about a specific project or collaboration. It’s a small industry, and word-of-mouth often acts as a preliminary introduction to potential partners. Council’s Derek Chen summed this up best: “Everybody knows somebody who knows everyone, and there really aren’t that many degrees of separation.” Jerry Helling of Bernhardt Design adds that manufacturing a new product “is a very personal thing; you spend a lot of time with these people”—so getting to know each other first is crucial. And Matter’s Jamie Gray offers a good rule of thumb for all your cold calls and other self-introductions: “Just don’t be mean.”

1.jpgSome of the work discussed in this series, with designs by (from left) Angell, Wyller & Aarseth; Francois Chambard; BIKE ID; and Claudia & Harry Washington

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Design Gatekeepers: Jamie Gray

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This is the tenth and final post in our interview series with influential I.D. curators, retailers and creative directors. Yesterday, we talked to the Cooper-Hewitt’s design curator, Ellen Lupton.

Jamie Gray can’t pinpoint the moment he fell in love with design. His interests quickly shifted from collecting midcentury pieces to following the new ideas and materials being explored by contemporary designers. Matter, the design shop he founded in 2003 to showcase that work, is now a fixture of New York’s design scene, and Gray is widely known for his discerning eye. MatterMade, the shop’s in-house line, was developed expressly to champion American designers, and to prove that small-scale production—and real design for living—could succeed. With this year’s collection, MatterMade focused on a single designer for the first time, releasing a line of furniture and lighting by Roman & Williams.

How do you find out about new designers?

New designers come to Matter in every imaginable way. I’m immersed in the design community locally, nationally and internationally, so people come to me through other designers, introductions and recommendations. I follow the industry via blogs, magazines and periodicals. I’m always intrigued by what’s happening, what’s current.

Elle Decoration UK is probably my favorite magazine, because they feature the type of work Matter looks for, but there are so many others: Surface, Dwell, Wallpaper, World of Interiors. Online I’m all over the map. I’m always checking Sight Unseen because I think Jill [Singer] and Monica [Khemsurov] are constantly curating and finding interesting new work and talented young designers and creators. David John, who runs You Have Been Here Sometime, puts together a really beautiful blog. There’s also Architizer, Yatzer and, of course, Core77. And the list goes on.

I also receive cold calls, or more specifically, cold e-mails. We receive a lot of work via e-mail, all of which I look through with excitement and enthusiasm. Maybe one in a hundred I will respond or relate to. It’s not even that all the work is good or bad; it’s that the process of curating, or the process of beginning a new project, is such a personal endeavor. Occasionally I’ll open an e-mail and really respond to somebody’s work and I’ll introduce myself.

DesignGatekeepers-JamieGray-2.jpgThe Matter store in New York

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Design Gatekeepers: Ellen Lupton

DesignGatekeepers-EllenLupton-1.jpgPhoto by Michelle Qureshi

This is the ninth post in our interview series with ten influential I.D. curators, retailers and creative directors. Yesterday, we talked to The Future Perfect’s owner, David Alhadeff.

An accomplished writer, critic, educator and graphic designer, Ellen Lupton has been a curator of contemporary design at the Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, since 1992. With an interest in design across media, and a diverse, public-minded approach to her work, Lupton is busy curating an upcoming exhibition of product design slated to open in fall 2014, after the museum completes its three-year renovation and expansion. She also directs the graphic design M.F.A. program at Maryland Institute College of Art.

How do you find out about new designers?

From magazines. I’m a big fan of Metropolis. The New York Times, of course. Eye for graphic design is very good. Print. Wired. And then websites like Designboom, Core77, Design Observer, manystuff, and Fast Company. I look at [Adobe’s] Behance—I like that you can see lots of people in an almost democratic way, and it’s very nice for looking at work by younger people. Pinterest is very important to me; I look at that a lot and post a lot to it. Also, press releases from designers—those are actually very useful.

From going to museums and shops. From word of mouth and talking to colleagues and students. I’m a teacher so I’m around young people and I hear what they’re talking about; that’s really important. From conferences. That’s a place where you hear somebody talk that you wouldn’t have encountered otherwise. That’s really valuable. People should get out there and present and participate. It’s another way to show your work and share your work.

Another source for me is competitions. I really encourage people to participate in competitions; they’re an important source for curators.

And, finally, books. They still provide a depth of analysis and visual richness that you don’t find on the web. A few that I purchased in the last year to learn about new developments in design are Lidewji Edelkoort’s The Pop-Up Generation: Design Between Dimensions; the graduation book of the Design Academy Eindhoven; Michael Haverkamp’s Synesthetic Design; and a fascinating book about poster design called Poster No. 524: The Deconstruction of the Contemporary Poster.

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Design Gatekeepers: David Alhadeff

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This is the eighth post in our interview series with ten influential I.D. curators, retailers and creative directors. Yesterday, we talked to Herman Miller’s Gary Smith.

David Alhadeff opened The Future Perfect ten years ago on a quiet corner in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, with the intention of providing a platform for local designers to show and sell their work. Channeling his love of architecture, interiors, art history, industrial design and graphic design, Alhadeff’s storefront and his tightly edited selection of furniture and housewares put Brooklyn design on the map. The Future Perfect has since expanded beyond its modest roots, with locations in Manhattan and San Francisco and designs from all parts of the world, yet Alhadeff continues to champion emerging designers and maintain TFP’s integral sense of community.

How do you find about new designers?

I travel and visit trade fairs, and I do some amount of scouring in magazines and on the Internet. I sometimes find that to be a little disheartening. In terms of editing and curating a retail environment, I have to think about stuff being in the store for a very long time. With a magazine or Internet article, I can get swept up in the story, and sometimes I’m getting swept up for the wrong reasons. So it can be the wrong place for me to learn about something new. But I like The World of Interiors and Elle Decoration UK, and I’ve started looking at Elle Decor US as well. Online, I look at Dwell, Core77, Designboom, Highsnobiety, NOTCOT.

I also find out about a lot of designers through referrals. Friends, clients that we work with, interior designers, and photographers—they come into contact with the product in a very different way than we do, and oftentimes have an opportunity to see things that just aren’t going to be in stores. The photographers and the stylists are an interesting group of people that I listen to very closely. They’re curating in their own way, so they get it.

I always go to Milan to the Salone, and I started visiting the London Design Festival on a yearly basis as well. I make trips to international and domestic partners that we work with, and I try to do a trip every year someplace I haven’t visited to get into a local community and do studio visits. This year I’m going to Tokyo.

The last way would be through people who submit their work. We don’t have time to respond to every submission, but we look at every one. We do find diamonds in the rough.

DesignGatekeepers-DavidAlhadeff-2.jpgInside The Future Perfect’s Manhattan store

What kinds of design are you looking for at the moment?

I’m looking more at designer talent. It isn’t necessarily collections to purchase; it’s people to collaborate with. We launched our in-house collection last May and we’re continuing to expand that. So for me it’s more about looking at broader talent bases. I’ve always considered The Future Perfect to be about the relationships I have with the people, and the makers I work with. That defines what we do here.

I will say, there’s a certain type of design that’s happening now. There’s a return to craft along with the accessibility of new types of machinery and technology. It’s pushing design in two different directions, but they are merging and converging. For example, people are having parts machine-made but then using them in forms that are super organic and beautiful. This is something that’s new and fresh. What I’m seeing in our community—or with the designers we work with, at least—is a use of the two in combination. A lot of it is just about accessibility. These machines have been around for a while but young, emerging designers just starting out haven’t had access to them. On the flip side, there are things that are just entirely crafted. Piet Hein Eek‘s work, for example.

DesignGatekeepers-DavidAlhadeff-3.jpgThe Future Perfect will begin carrying Justine Ashbee’s Native Line weavings this fall.

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Design Gatekeepers: Gary Smith

DesignGatekeepers-GarySmith-1.jpgGary Smith (left) and the Alcove Chair, one of six prototypes that came out of a Herman Miller-sponsored studio at Cranbrook Academy of Art last year.

This is the seventh post in our interview series with ten influential I.D. curators, retailers and creative directors. Yesterday, we talked to MoMA curator Paola Antonelli.

In the annals of American furniture design, few brands are as storied as Herman Miller, which was responsible for producing numerous iconic pieces by midcentury giants like George Nelson, Isamu Noguchi and Charles and Ray Eames—and which continues to break new ground in furniture, lighting and sustainable manufacturing practices. For more than two decades, Gary Smith has been one of the key personnel responsible for keeping the Zeeland, Michigan-based company at the forefront of the industry. As Vice President of Product Design and Exploration, he frequently interacts with new and established industrial designers and is constantly seeking design that aligns with the ethos of Herman Miller. Smith previously worked for toy giant Hasbro, designing products (including Mr. Potato Head) for infants and preschoolers.

How do you find out about new designers?

It’s a rich mix—there’s not a linear process. We pay attention to what’s going on, we look at awards, we invite designers to send us links to their web presence. We try to be out there in the world, at conferences and shows, and meet people in person. We’re at ICFF, NeoCon, Orgatec; we go to the Salone in Milan. Everything from design conferences to the consumer electronics show in Vegas—we’re going to all of these. Invariably, because you’re Herman Miller, if you’re walking around and you’ve got that little red dot on, design finds you.

There’s also word of mouth, social networking, digital media. We sponsor university projects, so I get to know young designers that way. A lot of times we get recommendations from clients. We also have a lot of designers in the company. Folks like Ben Watson and Chris Hacker, for example, who are more involved in brand and facilities design. They have their entire careers-worth of relationships.

We also find out about new designers when they send us unsolicited submissions: “Hey Herman Miller, you should make my coffee table.” We’re actually not interested in those. What I am interested in is a conversation about how their work illustrates their thinking. In other words, I’m interested in them, not their thing. We work exclusively from an outbound design brief. That means Herman Miller thinks deeply about where it’s relevant in the world and the problems that exist, and we take our point of view and we write it in a brief. Then I give that brief to the designer who possesses the gifts I think most match the problem I’m trying to address.

What kinds of design are you looking for at the moment?

To answer this requires understanding what you mean by design. What I mean by design is human-centered problem solving. I’m not looking for styles. What I am looking for is a designer who has shown discipline to devote themselves to an idea, which demonstrates conviction, perseverance and a thought process.

So, first, I’m looking for design that is thoughtful, that embraces an intellectual thought process, and is foundationally premised in human-centered problem solving. Second, design that illustrates that the designer understands and has a sense of restraint; that style is subservient to the problem. I’m not saying everything needs to be austere, and I’m not making a comment about style. I’m simply saying that when style becomes the point, I don’t find that to be very legitimate design.

Finally, I’m looking for designs that show a command of material choices and an understanding of operational processes. What is it made of? “I don’t know but it’s sure beautiful”—that’s not a good answer. If that chair is made of plastic, I’d like the designer to understand the material and the process. If it’s injection molded: flow, sink, gating, ejection, and draft. If that same chair is made of concrete then I want to know that that chair is not intended to be mobile. That’s the kind of design I’m looking for.

DesignGatekeepers-GarySmith-2.jpgThe Cranbrook students were challenged to design furniture that embodied a “new vision of physical rest in a professional setting.”

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Design Gatekeepers: Paola Antonelli

DesignGatekeepers-PaolaAntonelli-1.jpgPortrait by Robin Holland

This is the sixth post in our interview series with ten influential I.D. curators, retailers and creative directors. Last Friday, we talked to Ambra Medda of L’ArcoBaleno.

We could hardly run this series on design gatekeepers without speaking to Paola Antonelli, who, as senior curator in the department of architecture and design at the Museum of Modern Art, is one of the most important forces in identifying contemporary design trends and presenting them to the public. Her MoMA exhibitions—which include 2005’s Safe: Design Takes on Risk, 2008’s Design and the Elastic Mind, and 2011’s Talk to Me—often present works by young and emerging designers across disciplines. Indeed, Antonelli has an insatiable appetite for good design in any form, which a perusal of her engaging Twitter feed will quickly reveal. She is currently working on a project about design and violence, a curatorial experiment (organized with Jamer Hunt, director of the MFA in Transdisciplinary Design at Parsons, and Kate Carmody, curatorial assistant in her department) that will launch online at the end of this month.

How do you find about new designers?

In many different ways: through blogs, Twitter, Flipboard, trusted publications, rabbit holes. The blogs I read are Designboom, Dezeen, We Make Money Not Art, Brain Pickings, Design Observer, Atlantic Cities, Makeshift, Hyperallergic, Next Nature, Fast Company, Laughing Squid, and many, many others that I reach intermittently through links on Twitter. I also look at schools’, organizations’ and designers’ websites. For example: Eyebeam, The Science Gallery, Rhizome, and the Royal College of Art Design Interactions.

On Twitter I like the discipline and etiquette, and the strong sense of identity. People hold their standards, whether high or low, and you can choose accordingly. Also, somehow a person’s character shines through. I feel that it is a natural and appropriate extension of my work as a curator, working in both directions, outgoing and incoming.

As for trusted publications—I used to read Domus and Abitare (I used to also write for them), but they recently went through perplexing changes; I’ll let you know in a few months. And then Eye, DAMn°, Wired, Frame, Apartamento, Icon, Metropolis, Volume, Casa Brutus.

In person. Keeping my eyes open every moment, and checking out who designed interesting things I see. Schools are eternally inspiring. I try to attend the end-of-year shows for several of my favorite schools, and the ones I cannot make in person I pursue online. I also attend conferences—too many to count. The recurring ones are the World Economic Forum in Davos and Eyeo in Minneapolis. The Salone in Milan, albeit not a conference, is another recurring engagement. When I travel to those conferences, I also try to do studio visits.

Through recommendations by kindred spirits: Alice Rawsthorn, Jamer Hunt, Kate Carmody, Fiona Raby and Tony Dunne. I am indebted to many great colleagues.

Through self-recommendation. Yes, I do read e-mails that designers send about their work; it is quite a chaotic process and the most important step is note-taking. I take very good notes in any form available, by hand, and then I scan them—on my Blackberry, on Evernote. If I re-read them, I digest them.

DesignGatekeepers-PaolaAntonelli-3.jpgCrowbot Jenny, a creation of the artist and designer Sputniko!, featured in the Antonelli-organized 2011 MoMA exhibition Talk to Me. Photo by Hitomi Yoda

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Design Gatekeepers: Ambra Medda

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This is the fifth post in our interview series with ten influential I.D. curators, retailers and creative directors. Yesterday, we talked to Council’s Derek Chen.

To Ambra Medda, design is a wild and wonderful subject matter. After co-founding Design Miami in 2005 and directing that hugely influential international fair for for six years, Medda stepped down and shifted her focus to a different kind of programming. Originally imagined as a physical location with events, gallery space and a concept store, L’ArcoBaleno (“The Rainbow” in Italian) evolved instead into an online marketplace where editorial stories comingle with collectible design objects for sale. Unfazed by putting NASA, Zaha Hadid and Botswanan weavers in the same sentence, Medda curates a refreshingly inclusive view of design.

How do you find out about new designers?

A lot of it comes from word of mouth. I have a healthy network of designers, gallerists and other people that I’ve worked with. Designers are very hard-working and competitive, but they’re also very generous and supportive. The community is quite giving. If I do a studio visit with a designer who’s relatively established, they’ll very openly say, “Please meet these young designers that are working for me.” It’s a whole circuit.

Also end-of-year shows. A lot of talent I pick up directly from design schools like the Royal College of Art, ECAL in Switzerland and the Design Academy Eindhoven. And then just walking around and poking your nose in places—it could be a corner store here in New York, or it could be some guy making traditional ceramics in Southern Italy. It doesn’t have to be that far away. There’s some pretty exotic stuff around the corner if you’re prepared to open your eyes.

My main intent now is really to open up the discourse. Because I feel like we keep talking about the same designers. The magazines, the fairs, the system tends to highlight the safer choice. I don’t know one designer from New Zealand, but I’m sure there’s incredible craftsmanship happening there. Same thing with the Philippines. I’m excited to go and find out. Not just focus on Paris, Milan, and London—all cities that are compelling and that I will continue to visit—but go and discover new territories and completely unknown talent.

What kinds of design are you looking for at the moment?

I’m always looking for quality. Quality meaning care and dedication to the way this thing is made. It could be super high-tech, or it could be very low-fi and very crafty. Fresh. It has to come with that feeling of, “Wow, I’ve never seen this before.” Not because it’s out of this world or something that’s completely unrecognizable—but you have to feel a sense of novelty, for sure.

Then I think the designer has to be interesting as a person. I’m interested in the whole story, from the city to the studio to the way that person lives or works, or the process behind the pieces that they make. The things that inspire them, the ideas that they represent. All of that stuff produces the reason why I’m there. I’m very motivated by people and the things that they make. If they’re made well and I feel like they’re promising, that’s compelling.

DesignGatekeepers-AmbraMedda-3.jpgMedda on a studio visit with the Dutch designer Maarten Baas

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Design Gatekeepers: Derek Chen

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This is the fourth post in our interview series with ten influential I.D. curators, retailers and creative directors. Yesterday, we talked to MoMA’s merchandising director, Emmanuel Plat.

Derek Chen credits his Midwestern upbringing with instilling a grounded design perspective. Favoring practicality over flash, Chen cares deeply about the heritage of American design. He founded Council in 2006, both as a creative outlet and a space to explore what defines modern American design. Growing from a loose cadre of designers into a respected manufacturer of contemporary furniture, Council’s collections continue to evolve under Chen’s careful direction. The San Francisco-based company boasts a strong roster of designers, including Arik Levy, Monica Förster, Nendo, Karim Rashid, Mike and Maaike, and One & Co.

How do you find out about new designers?

I do what everybody does: I read the blogs, I walk shows and I talk to people. It’s a pretty small industry. I think that everybody knows somebody who knows everybody, and there really aren’t that many degrees of separation.

To be honest, I don’t read that many blogs. I do read Core77, Dezeen. I also like to look outside of furniture. I think architecture is interesting. The more you look exactly at your target, which in my case would be furniture design, the narrower your view gets. So I’ve trained myself to look outside. I can’t say I’ve found a fashion designer who’s designing furniture for us, but I’m always interested to see what’s happening elsewhere. There’s a certain cultural space that design, music, cars, furniture and all these things inhabit that crosses over.

The people aspect of it is pretty important to me. It’s one of those industries where the nice people generally float to the top. I don’t know if people realize it, but they’re building their resume by interacting with other people in the industry. Word gets around, in a good way. Just being friendly and nice is pretty productive. So the people I meet are generally people who know somebody; there always has to be some sort of a personal connection. I find design that I like and I want to see somebody is committed to design, but I also just want to know that they’ll be good to work with. Generally speaking, it’s not a matter of us getting a design and then making it. There’s quite a lot of back-and-forth. And some people are fun to work with and some people aren’t.

What kinds of design are you looking for at the moment?

I think that as a collection, Council is evolving. It started out pretty tightly curated. A lot of the things we ended up producing were things I feel like I might have designed at some point. What I’m looking for now is stuff that would open my eyes a bit more—specifically, that I wouldn’t do. At the very beginning we had what I’ve called a “new American” curatorial look, and I think that’s still important. It’s important for us as Americans to feel some sort of design identity. We’re still in the stage of development where introducing this country to good design serves all of us. That doesn’t necessarily mean we work with only American designers. It’s time to cast the net a little wider.

There are a lot of designers who design things that I would never design myself. I would put Jamie Hayon in that category. I don’t know quite how to describe it. He uses form and color in a way that I don’t. I tend to be very reductive; I try to design everything down as close as possible to a very simple cube. He doesn’t fear a little ornament; he doesn’t fear form. He’s got a completely different look, and I love that work. We don’t work with him, I don’t know him, I’ve never met him. But I’ve admired him from afar and his work is very different than stuff we’ve done. So I’m looking for the next different thing. I look for design that stretches me a little bit.

Design-Gatekeepers-DerekChen-2.jpgLast spring, Council introduced Pila, a line of storage by the Salvadoran designers Claudia & Harry Washington

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Design Gatekeepers: Odile Hainaut

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This is the third post in our interview series with ten influential I.D. curators, retailers and creative directors. Yesterday, we talked to Bernhardt Design’s Jerry Helling.

Odile Hainaut is always looking for design that tells a story—and, as manager of New York’s Gallery R’Pure and co-founder with Claire Pijoulat of WantedDesign, she is continually crafting unique opportunities for product designers to showcase their work. Founded in 2011, WantedDesign grew out of the desire for a more interactive and intimate forum during New York Design Week, bringing together manufacturers, designers, students and the public for workshops and dialogue about design. Gallery R’Pure, an offshoot of the consultancy Raison Pure (where Hainaut is Director of Communications), provides the French-born Hainaut with an experimental lab through which to introduce the work of young French and American designers to a wider audience.

How do you find out about new designers?

Number one, seeing them at the fairs during design weeks. The Salone del Mobile in Milan, Maison et Objet in Paris, the London Design Festival and Design Miami—that’s one I never miss. You go to meet people, to really concentrate on discovering designers and looking at things. When I’m traveling, I’m always excited. If I come back and I’ve met or discovered three people, I’m happy. Fairs are key for discovering new talent. You have to be curious.

When I’m traveling, I always take the time to look at galleries, museums and design shows. And I love blogs and magazines. I always buy all the design magazines: Wallpaper, Surface, Ideat, Elle Decor, Metropolis, Intramuros, Frame. I also look at travel magazines in France to see what’s happening in the world. As for blogs, I read Core77, Design Milk, Designboom, Sight Unseen, Nowness, Monocle.

Schools are important too. For WantedDesign workshops, we’ve had a chance to meet students from schools like Art Center College of Design, Parsons, the School of Visual Arts, ENSCI Les Ateliers, ENSAAMA Olivier de Serres, CENTRO Mexico. You learn a lot and you understand a lot about the way young designers are working, what are their interests and how they are looking at the future.

Then, of course, people who come to the gallery or send me work. I take the time to read the e-mails or look at the portfolio when someone sends something.

DesignGatekeepers-OdileHainaut-2.jpgThe Props series by Frederick McSwain—part of the exhibition Off the Grid at Gallery R’Pure last spring

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