Close to bustling neighborhoods, this 17-room property overlooks a historic park

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An Elegant Retreat at Hotel das Amoreiras, Lisbon

Close to bustling neighborhoods, this 17-room property overlooks a historic park

Katie Olsen

23 August 2023

Lisbon’s small but pretty Jardim das Amoreiras—a park founded in 1759 by the Marquis of Pombal when he planted 300+ mulberry trees, intending them to spur the silk industry—is framed by 18th century townhouses that were once the homes of silk workers. Two of those once-abandoned buildings have been converted into the charming Hotel das Amoreiras. 

With 17 rooms and two attic suites, the space has been thoughtfully refurbished and designed by owners Pedro Oliveira and Alicia Valero. Oliveira designed many elements himself (including various pieces of furniture and light fittings) and works from the couple’s personal art collection adorn the walls. 

Through design and decor, the property conveys a satisfying blend of private home and tastefully ritzy hotel. It may be close quarters, but it’s quiet and cozy—thanks in part to the carpeted hallways, heavy guest-room doors and thick windows. Bathrooms feature high-quality, robust fixtures and elegant Portuguese marble. All the expected amenities (plush robes, bathroom products, TV and USB ports) are included, alongside unexpected and thoughtful touches. From the bed linens to the light fittings, everything feels grand and luxe without being pretentious.

Opening last year, the hotel (one of Small Luxury Hotels of the World’s 500 select properties) provides quiet respite from the bustling city, while being near neighborhoods like Príncipe Real and Bairro Alto, and with various bus and tram stops close by. If you’re walking up the steep hills back from the city center, there are plenty of places along Rua da Escola Politécnica for breakfast, snacks and pasteis de nata to fuel your journey. A stop at Imprensa Oyster and Cocktail Bar is an especially welcome reward. (Also not far are Restaurante Pica-Pau, BouBou’s and Magnolia Bistrot & Winebar.)

But if you want to enjoy a drink after a long day at the hotel, the bar—with wicker stools, velvet banquettes, textured wallpaper and vintage movie posters—offers cocktails, wine, snacks and sweets until late. 

When it comes to hotel breakfasts, Hotel das Amoreiras gets it right. Served from 8AM until noon, breakfast is made to order—and the dishes are impressive. On the menu, guests will find pastries, breads, granola and muesli available, as well as cheeses, cured meats, fruit, eggs served five different ways and fresh juices and coffee options. Weather permitting, breakfast and drinks can be enjoyed in the hotel’s sun-dappled courtyard—replete with cobblestones, cafe seating and gingham cushions. 

From the food to the fabrics and the employees’ approach, understated elegance abounds at this charming hotel.

Hero image courtesy of Francisco Nogueira