Everlane's ReCashmere sweaters are made from old jumpers

Re Cashmere by Everlane

Everlane has launched a collection of sweaters made from repurposed cashmere, a move the US clothing brand claims halves the carbon footprint in comparison to traditional garments.

Everlane teamed up with Millefili mill in Prato, Italy, which specialises in up-cycling cashmere wool and other clothing materials, to make the ReCashmere sweaters with a blend of recycled cashmere and virgin wool.

Re Cashmere by Everlane

The mill collects worn sweaters through a recycling programme, and sorts and chooses colours that can be combed into new yarns to “give cashmere a second life”.

The selected yarns are then blended with extra-fine, virgin merino wool to create the garments. The merino portion is added to give the textile strength and durability, according to the company.

Re Cashmere by Everlane

The mill also conducted a life-cycle assessment of ReCashmere to measure the environmental impact of a product’s life – from manufacturing to repairs and recycling.

It found that recycled cashmere sweater has “a 50 per cent smaller carbon footprint than traditional cashmere”.

Following Everlane’s releases like Tread sneakers, which it claims are the “world’s most sustainable sneakers”, and its plans to stop using virgin plastic by 2021, the brand developed its ReCashmere in a bid to find a more environmentally friendly and sustainable way to produce cashmere wears.

Re Cashmere by Everlane

Cashmere is produced from goats’ hair, while merino is made from sheep’s wool. Cashmere has a much larger environmental impact because it typically requires four goats to make enough wool for one sweater, while the wool of one sheep can be enough for five garments.

An increase in the demand for cashmere products in recent years has called for farmers to increase the size of their herds of goats.

This has had a detrimental effect on grasslands, particularly in Mongolia where the animals are commonly raised, with goats pulling up grass from its roots and piercing the ground with their hooves.

The impact caused by animal raising also prompted British fashion designer Stella McCartney to quit using virgin cashmere. McCartney’s brand also re-engineers used cashmere to create new products.

Re Cashmere by Everlane

ReCashmere comes in different clothing cuts and styles, including crew neck and v-neck sweaters, as well as a women’s button-up and cardigan.

Colours range from cream, black, tan, light and dark blue, green, yellow, peach and maroon. Despite their blended composition of recycled and virgin wool threads, all of the pieces are unicolour.

Re Cashmere by Everlane

Everlane was founded in 2010 by Michael Preysman and Jesse Farmer, and has stores in New York City and San Francisco. The brand aims to counteract fast-fashion by offering quality basics while being transparent in its sourcing and pricing models.

It is among a number of new fashion companies that are designing clothing and consumer models to be more sustainable.

Examples include the Pangaia T-shirt made from a lightweight seaweed fibre and Mud Jeans, which is composed of between 23 and 40 per cent recycled denim.

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What We Learned at the 2019 Core77 Conference, "The Third Wave"

by Alexandra Alexa and John P. Kazior

This year’s Core77 Conference, “The Third Wave” took place on Friday, October 4th, and included presentations by a number of designers working in variety of fields, but all asking similar questions through their work, like: How can designers do better? How can our community use our unique skillsets in order to enact real change? Each talk countered and questioned the design community’s established processes while challenging how design can uniquely tackle issues relating to sustainability, representation, and not perpetuating frightening sci-fi visions of the future.

All photos by Rebecca Smeyne

Didn’t get a chance to take part in this year’s conference and wondering what attendees got out of the experience? Here are some of the lessons we took away from talks throughout the day:

Notes on collaboration

Yasaman Sheri set the tone for the rest of the day with her discussion about the importance of “code switching” across disciplines to better design in the increasingly complex and networked systems we find ourselves in. Sheri presented her wide-ranging work—from being one of the first designers working on Microsoft’s Hololens to a recent residency at Gingko Bioworks where she created biosensors that can react to certain molecules, toxins, hormones, etc. far more sensitively than existing hardware.

Early prototypes of the Microsoft Hololens

Along the way, she’s learned to switch between various “codes”—those embedded in our culture, in nature, in our machines. As her practice has evolved, so too has her desire to build trust through language, exemplified by initiatives like the BioDesign Dictionary that she created to establish a foundation for her work with the scientists at Gingko. “Shared language helps us build trust across boundaries,” Sheri explained. “It requires taking the initiative (and having the interest) to learn the other community’s language.” “There is no consensus on an ethical future because there is no ‘one’ ethic nor ‘one’ future,” she continued. While it may not be possible to come to a single consensus on one “ethical future,” collective decision-making is going to be vital going forward.

John Maeda released the floodgates, so to speak, when he was quoted in Fast Company as saying “in reality, design is not that important.” His seemingly dismissive statement launched a series of impassioned responses, even though it lacked context. Maeda used this experience to launch a discussion about the value of public failure and the importance of those who assume the risk of disrupting norms. “Disruptors are an anomaly,” Maeda said. Most people don’t love change, so if you assume that role you have to be prepared to take the heat. And if (or rather, when) you find yourself experiencing a public failure of your own, Maeda shared his go-to resource for getting out of the funk, this essay on “personal renewal” by John Gardner.

Joe Meersman of Resideo hosted a panel with Marijke Jorritsma of NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory and Dean Malmgren of IDEO, exploring the future of data on micro and macro scales. The issue of language and communication across disciplines emerged as a key theme again. As Dean put it, he works as “a data scientist working with other data scientists to learn the language of design” while Marijke has to understand and anticipate the needs of astronauts as she develops user experiences for future missions. When designing UX for highly-trained scientists, one major challenge Marijke pointed out is making sure that the data is not looked at as proprietary. Ultimately, she said we find ourselves in “exciting data times,” but Dean was quick to point out they are also “terrifying data times.” When designing new experiences, the data we currently have—although there’s a lot of it—is not always the right data and language is big part of how that gets framed.

Question the legacy of modern design practices

Through examples like the Lego Braille Bricks, Liz Jackson schooled the audience on spotting “disability dongles” and asked that we always question whether we’re “thinking of” or “thinking for” when designing. Design briefs too often seek to fix disabled people. “We’re defined as the problem rather than the problem being defined as the problem,” Jackson said. In the process, emerging technological schools of thought like transhumanism are actually promoting the erasure of disabled people through design.

Lego Braille bricks commercials are highly visual and therefore clearly not created for blind consumers.

Jackson proposed “design questioning” as an alternative to “design thinking.” She referenced the shift from thinking about empathy as inspiration—according to the definition of being “physically moved by works of great human expression”—to it being a way of expressing pity or sympathy. “We’ve lost the ability to parse between definitions,” she said. Nobody is immune from this kind of thinking. Jackson concluded with a rumination on Lewis Miller’s flower installation in NYC. She stumbled across a bunch on a curb and was instinctively drawn to pick them up, to save them from being discarded. “Not all things need saving,” she realized. “Sometimes they need the right to exist.”

Jerome Harris took us on a crash course through the history of modernism in graphic design, from its Nazi roots to its current status as the default language of printed matter and branding. Modernism has become a default in much of graphic design today. It’s familiar grids and alignments have essentially become synonymous with the entire discipline. Modernism “gives design an immediate legitimacy,” Harris noted. Rather, Harris urged attendees to consider how technology gives us more opportunities than ever to be expressive. Rather than mining the familiar canon for inspiration, Harris suggested alternate sources that have been left out of the history books. The long lineage of queer and feminist zines for example, show what design can be when it’s made with true urgency. “When you have something to say, not just sell,” as Harris noted. As modernism continues to define the expression of our tech-driven capitalism, how do we find a new Modernism that is more appropriate for the challenges we face? Harris ended with a simple ask: think about the criteria you use to assess good design and don’t stop challenging it.

Rethink how technology can be utilized to enact change

Several founders housed in New Lab presented their company concepts to the Core77 audience and demonstrated very different ways in which technology, machine learning and data can be harnessed to create sweeping change. Atolla skincare founder Meghan Maupin discussed how her company uses machine learning to perfect skincare solutions, which results in a better understanding of one’s own skin health and as a result, declining packaging waste in the cosmetic industry. Farmshelf founder Suma Reddy explained to the crowd how she found a way to grow hyper-localized produce in indoor settings with minimal water usage. And finally, Roots Studio Rebecca Hui demonstrated how technology can be used to preserve heritages and cultures’ creative products while also ensuring these communities can be properly attributed and paid for their original works.

What have we gotten ourselves into?

In his “participatory talk,” Francois Nguyen, creative director at Frog, took the audience through Maslow’s famous “hierarchy of needs,” with a set of exercises designed to help simulate the fine line between comfort and need. Providing a series of historical vignettes to demonstrate how industry has addressed those needs of ours, Nguyen highlighted the ways in which design has so often led to excess. From the simple paper dixie cup, an object designed to make drinking more hygienic, to the 1 million plastic water bottles consumed every minute, that we’ve arrived at. In his discussion of the cost of comfort, Nguyen implored us to consider the importance of all the products we create, but also, all that we don’t.

How now do we reckon with the world comfort has created for us? Susanne DesRoches, took us through her 25 year journey from her education and early career in industrial design, to developing sustainability and resilience guidelines for the city of New York. Building from experience as a designer and learning to collaborate with engineers and architectures at the Port Authority, DesRoches, has been able to apply her unique experiences to helping prepare the city for an uncertain future. Sea level rise, precipitation fluxtuation, air temperature increase and the multitude of issues climate change will inevitably throw at the city. From DeRoches’ own journey we can glean that collaboration and education are a necessity if we are ever to prepare ourselves accordingly.

For designers, finding a place to start when it comes to confronting climate change and other issues in sustainability can be a challenge. Moderated by Leigh Christie of MistyWest, Sandra Moerch, Meagan Durlak, and Brian Ho discussed the ways in which they’ve addressed the United Nations Sustainable Development Goal’s through their own work and how they can serve as a starting point for sustainable design practice. Finding goals to connect with, and learning how the different goals can inform each can help individuals and organizations develop more comprehensively sustainable practices going forward.

Design for an uncertain future

Just as designers must acknowledge the social and ecological issues of our time, we can’t stop pushing the boundaries of our collective imagination. VR/AR “evangelists,” Max Almy and Teri Yarbow of SCAD, demonstrated the many ways that the technology can alter perspective, experience, and ideally generate empathy, in the budding medium. With projects like “Oculus VR for Good” and their own project “Radiance” for therapy in Hospice, Almy and Yarbow suggest that the VR/AR frontier can offer possibilities for social impact that we’ve not had access to before as artists and designers.

Archie Lee Coates, partner at PlayLab INC., has made a career of challenging what is possible. Archie and his cohort at PlayLab INC. set for themselves the mission of creating a public swimming pool, “+Pool,” in the East River. Though it has been an endeavor spanning several years with obstacles the whole way through, their vision will finally be realized.

PlayLab and FOOD‘ s +Pool concept (soon to be a reality)

Providing an impressive carousel of design, publishing, exhibition, fashion, installation, performance, and more, Archie took us on a journey through the dreams of his studio. With the improbable achievement of +Pool, Archie made a compelling case for the collective pursuit of dreams.

In the conference’s final presentation, Paola Antonelli, gave us a glimpse at what dreaming in our current ecological crisis might look like. In the exhibition Broken Nature, curated for the Design Triennale in Milan, Antonelli compiled a wide array of designers and artists that are acknowledging climate change and extinction, and imagining the ways we might proceed forward. Through the diverse and multidisciplinary exhibition, Antonelli presents the idea that we cannot escape extinction, but we may can decide the manner in which we go out.

Stay tuned for speaker videos in the coming weeks, and learn more about the 2019 Core77 Conference, “The Third Wave” on our conference website

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Currently Crowdfunding: A Reusable Straw That Won't Get Soggy, an Upgraded Thermometer, and More

Brought to you by MAKO Design + Invent, North America’s leading design firm for taking your product idea from a sketch on a napkin to store shelves. Download Mako’s Invention Guide for free here.

Navigating the world of crowdfunding can be overwhelming, to put it lightly. Which projects are worth backing? Where’s the filter to weed out the hundreds of useless smart devices? To make the process less frustrating, we scour the various online crowdfunding platforms to put together a weekly roundup of our favorite campaigns for your viewing (and spending!) pleasure. Go ahead, free your disposable income:

This reusable straw is made out of silicone so you can be sure it will never get soggy on you mid-drink. It comes in a range of sizes—there’s an extra-wide one for smoothies, milkshakes, and even Boba—and includes a handy carrying case and cleaning tool.

The Rally Pack is a rugged backpack made to accompany you on all your adventures—even if they get a little extreme. It combines the look of a vintage rolltop with versatile features that make it ready for modern life. (Note: The campaign video is on the long side, but worth a view.)

The MillRight Mega V claims to be the best value, affordable yet high-performance CNC. It can be used as a CNC router, plasma table, or hybrid depending on your needs.

Designed to make aquatic exploration accessible to anyone who is interested, the features on this small but mighty underwater drone make it capable of swimming with even the big fish.

Here’s an updated take on the thermometer that can measure your temperature in mere seconds and keep track of your data over time.

Do you need help designing, developing, patenting, manufacturing, and/or selling YOUR product idea? MAKO Design + Invent is a one-stop-shop specifically for inventors / startups / small businesses. Click HERE for a free confidential product consultation.

Dezeen Weekly features this year's RIBA Stirling Prize winner and a shipwreck skyscraper

Top Tower by Black n' Arch and David Černý in Prague

The latest edition of Dezeen Weekly includes the 2019 RIBA Stirling Prize winner and a sculptural red shipwreck that appears to crash into a high-rise in Prague. Subscribe to Dezeen Weekly >

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Competition: win a copy of We Build Drawings by Mikkel Frost

We Build Drawings by Mikkel Frost of CEBRA

In our latest competition, we’re offering 10 readers the chance to receive a book of sketches and watercolours by Mikkel Frost, a founding partner of architecture studio CEBRA.

The architect’s focus on drawing as an efficient way to communicate ideas within the design process is showcased through over 200 artworks from selected projects by the Danish studio.

Titled We Build Drawings, the book prioritises Frost’s notion that architects don’t build buildings, but build an idea instead: “To visualise it,” he explained, “we build drawings.”

We’ve teamed up with the architect and Frame Publishing to give away a copy of We Build Drawings to 10 winners.

We Build Drawings by Mikkel Frost of CEBRA

Divided into 21 projects, Frost’s drawings and sketches narrate CEBRA’s works including The Iceberg, Experimentarium, HF & VUC Fyn education centre and Children’s Home for the Future.

The publication follows his TEDxAarhus talk last year, titled Let Your Fingers Do The Talking!. A transcript of the talk is printed at the start of the book as its introduction.

In it, he justifies his style and proposes drawing as a way to appeal to organisations and clients who struggle to read technical architectural plans.

We Build Drawings by Mikkel Frost of CEBRA

“I’ve developed a new drawing typology based on cartoons and comic books, a visual language people are familiar with,” Frost explained in the talk.

Polished renderings for projects, he said, visualise the finished building but omit the reasoning behind the ideas that make up the design.

We Build Drawings by Mikkel Frost of CEBRA

In one example, Frost illustrates CEBRA’s residential and office complex, The Iceberg. The project focused on opening paths from the street to the nearby port, where water surrounds the site on three out of four sides.

To illustrate the design, Frost delves into a stylised underwater scene inhabited by fish, using tessellated right-angled triangles to mimic light refracting off water.

Above the watercolour-rendered building, a diagrammatic sequence explains the studio’s process and the way the building was developed to maximise natural light.

The book goes on to include more of the architect’s line drawings and quick sketches. These are annotated by hand and broken up with other watercolours that describe his process.

We Build Drawings by Mikkel Frost of CEBRA

Frost’s watercolours in the book were all created after the project’s architectural concepts were confirmed.

“In that sense [the watercolours] serve as what you might call conceptual full stops,” explained the architect.

Frost goes on to suggest that if a project can’t be explained within a single A4 page, “you are either saying too much or it is too complicated”.

“That’s why I draw – to make sure everyone is on the same page,” he continued.

We Build Drawings by Mikkel Frost of CEBRA

Also included in the book is Qasr Al Hosn fort in Abu Dhabi, a cultural renovation project in the UAE capital’s oldest building.

Frost’s watercolour depicts sand-coloured polygons set around strips of water contrasting with linear paths planted with palm trees, to reflect a project that sought to marry modernisation with Emerati heritage.

We Build Drawings by Mikkel Frost of CEBRA

Several of Frost’s watercolours were accepted to Berlin’s Museum for Architectural Drawing in 2016.

“The drawings will strike you as both fresh and very unusual,” said founder of the museum’s foundation Sergei Tchoban. “From their composition, a unique architectural language ensues.”

The book includes an index at the back with photographs of all the projects referenced by the drawings.

10 winners will each receive a copy of We Build Drawings, which is also available to buy online.

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Competition closes 7 November 2019. 10 winners will be selected at random and notified by email, and his or her names will be published at the top of this page.

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A Mid Century Modern Designer Whose Name You Should Know: Mel Smilow

If I asked you to rattle off some famous Mid Century Modern designers, I already know which names you’d say. Chances are it wouldn’t have included this fellow, but you should certainly know his name, and how his combination of design skills and business savvy led to a successful career. And how his deep portfolio has led to a recent resurgence of interest in his work.

Mel Smilow was a kid from the Bronx who, in 1939, got accepted into Pratt Institute. His plan was to become a commercial artist. Unfortunately, Mel’s father died that same year, and he had no choice but to drop out of school and take over the family business. His father had been a furniture wholesaler, a middleman between furniture manufacturers and retailers, and Mel took over the reins in order to feed his family.

Then came World War II, where Smilow traded a suit and tie for U.S. Army fatigues. After fighting Nazis in Europe under General Patton, Smilow returned with a Purple Heart.

After returning to New York in 1945, Smilow resumed selling furniture. Over the course of the next few years, he came up with a bold idea.

To explain: A furniture wholesaler, or middleman, had the then-important job of serving as the conduit between the factory and the retailer. Wholesalers survived by taking their cut of the transactions. That cut drove the price of the final product up. Smilow of course knew this, and he and business partner Morton Thielle had this thought: What if they vacated the middleman position, and instead served as the manufacturer–and the retail outlet? With this arrangement, the middleman’s cut disappears, and the price of the final product could be lowered.

They succeeded in setting up this arrangement by 1949, and opened their first storefront in Manhattan on Lexington Avenue.

Note: While the sign above indicates the business is called “Morton & Smilow,” this was eventually changed to the name they’d come to be known by, “Smilow & Thielle.”

Smilow was reportedly unhappy with the work of the designers that he had access to, and decided to design the furniture himself. This could obviously have gone wrong in many ways–what business does a furniture wholesaler, with no formal training, have designing furniture? But as it turned out, Smilow had a natural eye for proportion, and had apparently seen enough furniture to understand the importance of details, transitions, craftsmanship, material selection, et cetera.

Throughout the 1950s Smilow designed chairs, sofas, bookcases, tables, cabinetry and more. In 1956, this review of his work appeared in The New Yorker:

From one source or another, I had heard a good deal about the moderate priced modern furniture at [Smilow-Thielle], but [assumed] that the place was just one more outlet for debased copies of eccentric Scandinavian designs.

When I got around to visiting it, however, I found that the Messrs. Smilow and Thielle design and manufacture their own pieces and that these are by no means the blatant limitations one so often encounters in this copycat field; they aren’t even predominantly Scandinavian. Most of them are American in feeling, but without the unpleasantly self-conscious appearance of some mass-produced modern.

There is, for example, low and very broad armchair (you could call it an easy chair except that it isn’t upholstered) with a rush seat and back in a graceful frame of walnut-finished birch; the price is $29.95. The chair can be converted into it chaise longue by the addition of a square, rush-seated ottoman of corresponding dimensions priced at $21.95. The ottoman, which was chosen by the Pratt Institute last winter for an exhibition of well-designed objects costing less than $25, struck me as being surprisingly well-made, and so did the chair; the wood, being nicely grained, seems to have been selected with some care, the stretchers have been shrunk before being glued in place, and the rush seat and back are hand-woven.

While Smilow had been forced by circumstance to drop out of Pratt back in 1939, his work was now, some 16 years later, being exhibited there. There’s no photo in that 1956 issue of the New Yorker, but I assume this is the chair and ottoman they referred to:

“Furniture by Smilow-Thielle,” the New York Times wrote in later years, “was widely regarded in the decades following World War II as among the better examples of contemporary American design and workmanship.”

Below we see a newspaper ad for Smilow-Thielle furniture, circa 1959. To give you an idea of the cost savings engendered by the no-middleman approach, look at the small print beneath each price. For instance the final chair, priced at $29.95, has beneath it “If not made in our factories would be $59.” All of the prices are essentially halved. (In 2019 dollars, that chair would be $264 retail, vs. $520.)

“My father believed that working people should be able to afford modern design,” daughter Judy Smilow told Craft Council magazine in an interview last year.

Smilow-Thielle expanded into a chain of six stores, five in the New York area and one outside of Washington, D.C.

He did well enough that in 1963 he was able to purchase a home in Frank Lloyd Wright’s planned community, Usonia Homes, in Pleasantville (a suburb of New York City). Here’s Smilow’s sketch of the house he moved his family into, designed by Wright disciple Aaron Resnick:

The interior of the house was populated by Smilow’s own designs:

Smilow-Thielle continued to thrive throughout the 1960s and ’70s. In 1975, nearly twenty years after that positive New Yorker review, here were Smilow’s chairs being featured on the cover of the New York Times Magazine:

Smilow’ success meant he was able to retire before he even turned 60. “By 1981, he retired and closed the business,” reports Annex Galleries, “but continued to offer custom furniture, cushions, and covers to his loyal customers while he pursued his passion for sculpting, painting, and printmaking which he had done for a while, selling his color woodcuts through his stores.”

I am not sure how many good years of retirement Smilow had, but hopefully they were manifold. Smilow was eventually diagnosed with Alzheimer’s and passed away in 2002.

Following his death, Mel’s daughter Judy was going through his filing cabinets in the basement, and discovered that he had saved all of his furniture plans.

Judy had grown up to become a designer in her own right–her flatwear designs are part of the Cooper-Hewitt’s permanent collection

…and she correctly deemed her father’s furniture designs still relevant to the modern-day consumer. She decided to relaunch a number of her father’s designs, but the economic crash of 2008-2009 temporarily stymied her plans. “Finally, in 2012, I had the chance to have a chair made,” she told Craft Council. “I found a factory in Pennsylvania to make it, and that’s the one we still use today.”

Judy Smilow managed to relaunch ten pieces at the 2013 International Contemporary Furniture Fair. The response was positive, and today Smilow Design is a going concern, with Judy having steadily put more pieces into production each year, drawing from her father’s archives. Today their site is populated with dozens of designs for sale.

One major difference between then and now is that “you can’t make furniture in this country [today] at the price point he did,” Judy told Craft Council. “So I had to rejigger the business as a luxury line.”

The gambit paid off, and Judy succeeded in getting her father’s work back on the map. “For many years, nobody knew who Mel Smilow was,” she said. “My father really slipped through the cracks, mostly because he never signed his furniture. But that’s all changed. I continuously answer emails about his work.”

Sadly, Judy herself passed away last yeard after battling ALS. But Smilow Design lives on, with Judy’s daughter Maia and husband Steven having taken over the reins. Judy’s flatware designs have been added to their offerings, and you can see it all here.