West End Design Quarter "promotes design in the heart of central London"

London Design Festival 2014: in our second movie for designjunction, Deborah Spencer introduces the stores that took part in this year’s West End Design Quarter, including The Conran Shop, Domus and Another Country.

The Conran Shop
The Conran Shop on Marylebone High Street

Launched by design show designjunction last year, the West End Design Quarter includes a wide variety of stores and showrooms.

The initiative is “all about promoting design in the heart of central London,” designjunction director Deborah Spencer claims.

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Heals on Tottenham Court Road

“During London Design Festival designjunction has been the hub of central London over the last few years,” she says.

“What the West End Design Quarter does is encourages people to spend the entire day in central London. They can go to designjunction in the morning and then they can spend the afternoon shopping.”

West End Design Quarter Visa shopping promotion

Many of the stores taking part were running special offers during the week.



“This year we’ve collaborated with Visa to run a shopping promotion,” Spencer explains. “If you’re a card-holder, you can get discounts all across the West End.”

Side table by Magnus Long for The Conran Shop
Side table by Magnus Long for The Conran Shop

One such store was The Conran Shop, which also launched a new range of furniture by Magnus Long.

Kaza Concrete installation by Sam Frith for Domus tiles
Kaza Concrete installation by Sam Frith for Domus tiles

Other stores and showrooms put on special installations during the week, such as Domus tiles, who worked with Sam Frith to create an installation of his new tile collection for Kaza Concrete.

Another Country's Marylebone store
Another Country’s Marylebone store

Smaller, boutique brands also took part. Furniture brand Another Country, which launched a new light by Canadian designer Dana Cannam, worked with Cereal magazine and Phaidon books to create a quite place where people could retreat from the hustle and bustle of the festival.

Another Country's Marylebone store
Another Country’s Marylebone store

“This is the first LDF where we decided to do something in store,” says Another Country founder Paul de Zwart. “We created a reading room concept, kind of creating a respite place for people to come in during the week.”

First Light by Dana Cannam for Another Country
First Light by Dana Cannam for Another Country

This year, the West End Design Quarter also incorporated the Royal Institute of British Architects’s Regent Street Windows Project, in which architects teamed up with 15 retailers to create bespoke window installations.



Gant's installation for RIBA's Regent Street Windows Project
Gant’s installation for RIBA’s Regent Street Windows Project

“RIBA have connected architects with leading showrooms, so all across Regent Street you can see incredible installations,” Spencer says. “It’s literally a mile walk up the road to see all of them.”

Topshop for RIBA Windows Project
Topshop’s installation for RIBA’s Regent Street Windows Project

The music featured in the movie is by Junior Size. You can listen to the full track here.

Karen Millen's installation for RIBA's Regent Street Windows Project
Karen Millen’s installation for RIBA’s Regent Street Windows Project

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design in the heart of central London”
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Robert Wilson's Helmand photographs brought to UK streets

A photo series by photographer Robert Wilson, documenting the homecoming preparations and final withdrawal of British troops from Afghanistan, has been displayed on 59 billboards and bus stops in a site-specific exhibition across England and Scotland.

Wilson first visited Afghanistan in 2008, travelling to Helmand to document British forces on the front line, with the resulting images being published as a book (Helmand, Jonathan Cape, 2008). As a commercial photographer, commissioned mainly for editorial and advertising projects, this was a step away from familiar subjects. He then became an official “war artist” after being invited to Afghanistan by the Commander of the forces in Helmand.

Returning to the site in April this year, his aim was to photograph the troops’ final tour of duty, and the process of withdrawal from Camp Bastion in Helmand and other camps in Kabul.

After getting to know the troops, Wilson aimed to somehow capture, as he describes it, their “thousand-yard stare” – a certain expression on their “bedraggled” and exhausted faces, having seen images that will never leave them.

The stright on portraits are amongst the strongest in the series. There’s something about the look in their eyes, those dusty creases, the sunburn and the freckles – the intensity of these close-up shots tells just a snippet of a much greater story of conflict.

The location of each of the billboards was determined by biographical data gathered from the returning troops, and Wilson hopes this will mean that the outdoor exhibition becomes “both a literal and a metaphorical return home”, he says.

The large-scale portraits of the dusty, exhausted faces are stunning (see more from the original series on Wilson’s website), and the semi-abstract shots of the aircraft engine and the ammunition are particularly beautiful too.

Wilson aimed to actively engage the public in part through juxtaposing the images with familiar everyday locations, breaking down the sense of a war being ‘elsewhere’ or happening to ‘other people’, although some of work better than others. Pairings include an image of the Post Office in Camp Bastion being on display near a local Royal Mail Depot, or a makeshift church image opposite a war memorial in London.

Creating a public exhibition is surely a great way to bring the work to a wider audience and to communities who might share the effects of the troops’ homecoming. But is there something about the fact that they are appearing on billboards and bus stops as stand alone images without written explanation (and only a QR code in the corner), that could lead to a misreading of them as big and bold army recruitment ads? Perhaps that doesn’t matter if they still serve as a reminder of the conflict, and act as a temporary site of remembrance for communities locally.

Although the public exhibition lasted only a couple of weeks, and has now officially ended, some of the billboards are yet to be rebooked so keep an eye out for the images around the country, (click here for the full list of locations). A gallery show of the photographs is also on until November 30 at Gallery One and A Half, London.

 

www.helmandreturn.com

 

Marcel Haeusler

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Lui è Marcel Haeusler.

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The Hundreds Report crew neck sweat

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Forse perchè il 1980 è il mio anno di nascita, forse perchè le crew neck grigie sono le mie preferite di sempre…fatto sta che questa felpa di The Hundreds piace molto. La trovate sullo store online.

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Dior Homme – Genesis

Voici le nouveau spot Dior Homme – « Genesis » produit par Iconoclast et réalisé par les français Megaforce. Une vidéo en noir et blanc où tout commence par l’essence même du parfum. La puissance des arômes et l’aspect poudré de cette fragrance sont illustrés par de superbes focus d’explosions où la masculinité et l’extrême sensorialité sont mis en exergue. À découvrir sur une musique de Son Lux.

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Łód&#378 Design Festival 2014: 'Algaemy' Blonde & Bieber

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A key event of the Łód&#378 Design Festival is the international design competition Make Me! showcasing work of up-and-coming talent from Poland, Europe and the rest of the world.

Winner of the spoils this year was Berlin-based studio Blond and Bieber for their ‘Algaemy’ project (also awarded as a notably student speculative design entry to Core77 Award) using the properties of colorful algae to produce dyes for textile-making. Noting the huge recent scientific interest in the plants, the designers were inspired to explore the creative potential of algae. They created the ‘Algaemy’ printer—a mobile algae farm, workstation and human-powered textile printer—to print on large sections of textile with shades of blue, green, brown and red, where the colors apparently developing and deepening with time.

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.klatz Smartwatch and Handset: A stylish wrist accessory rethinking the form and functions of wearable tech

.klatz Smartwatch and Handset


While fashion often takes a backseat to function, or vice versa, in wearable tech, Ukraine’s .klatz is hoping to change that with their smartwatch and handset. They’ve revisited the bracelet form, but unlike Nike’s FuelBand,…

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Rodney Fitch: a tribute

“I always felt that I had a mission in life to deliver to ordinary people better places to shop”. Rodney Fitch, one of the true greats of British design, has passed away. As a tribute we are republishing this 1996 Design Week interview by Richard Williams which caught Fitch at his charming best

Williams interviewed Fitch for a series of articles on the “founding fathers” of the British design industry. At the time, Fitch had recently bounced back from a traumatic break with his original consultancy, to form Rodney Fitch & Company with Richard Branson’s backing.

 

 

Half Moon Street is a pretty street in London’s Mayfair where you would expect to find firms of conveyancing solicitors or chartered accountants. Surprisingly, it has offered sanctuary to someone who radically changed the way we shop and whose touch brightened every high street in the UK during the Eighties, namely Rodney Fitch.

Fitch is absolutely captivating, with the skills of a great raconteur and a very open sensitivity. His is an epic story with all the ingredients of a best-seller – with his extraordinary highs and lows, powerful friendships which ran aground irretrievably and an incredible personal inner strength.

The new office is part of a portfolio of properties owned by Richard Branson, equal shareholder in the new Rodney Fitch and Company. A far cry from the huge monument to success that was the centre of the Fitch empire in King’s Cross, it is somewhere to rebuild confidence and start the long climb back.

The link to Branson means that Fitch now has the opportunity to pitch on all Virgin business, although it is not a foregone conclusion that he will win it, as the loss of the Virgin cinema projects to Design Clinic and Watson Design proves.

Fitch explains: “My departure from Fitch plc was horrible, and it was done in such a way that it questioned my self-worth. My personal regard for myself had been systematically destroyed and Richard, by expressing the confidence in me that he did, helped restore that self-respect. He owns 50 per cent of this business and we plan to make it as big and successful as we possibly can. I want to make it as big, if not bigger, than Fitch. This is not a desire for revenge, just that the opportunity is there to be taken advantage of.”

Born in Islington in 1938, an only child of working class parents, his education was “unspectacular”. After technical college he joined a shopfitting company in its design studio, but soon realised that he did not want to work for traditional shopfitters, instead he wanted to work for a small, creative and elite design and architecture group.

“My life was changed by the work of Bronek, Katz and Meir. My Holy Grail was the Richard Shops store the group designed at London’s Marble Arch, with its huge sheets of glass pinned to metal frames. It blew shopfitting completely out of the water. To me this company was doing absolutely state-of-the-art stuff. I was just knocked out by it all.”

He had strong left-wing political views in those days and his involvement with the Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament almost lost him his first big break. Offered a job as a junior designer with Conran Design Group, the start date was immediately after a CND rally in Ruislip…”Of course, I got arrested. I was bundled off to Ashford Remand Centre where I refused to co-operate. Eventually, I was duped into giving my details and my mother contacted Terence Conran to explain why I hadn’t turned up for work! He paid my 50 fine and I was released. I always felt indebted to Terence for this display of generosity. It was 1963 when I embarked on several very happy, enjoyable and creative years at the Conran Design Group, ending up as managing director there in 1968.”

On Conran’s departure from CDG, he approached Fitch to join him at the new Conran Associates, but Rodney decided instead to buy the former CDG from Burtons. He renamed it Fitch & Company and was on his way.

“I decided there had to be a change in my life,” explains Fitch. This episode marked the well-publicised falling out between the once very close partners. “I knew that I owed Terence not just that crucial 50, but all I had learned from him. When the chips were down and he was starting again he needed me and I wasn’t there. I lived with that guilt for years.” He feels that his recent acrimonious departure from Fitch at the hands of Conran and others has levelled the score.

Conran, Jean François Bentz and Martin Beck began the financial restructuring of Fitch plc and Rodney realised that he no longer had a place in the business. The parting was sad and acrimonious and there are details he will not divulge. His resentment at his treatment is very clear. The concept of this proud man pushing his bicycle away from the company he loved without even being allowed to pump up the front tyre beggars belief.

“On a personal level, being a public company had very substantial benefits. On paper, it gave an economic value to my life. To be chairman of a public company, which had to be properly run, managed and be accountable to its shareholders, was how I wanted to be judged. It also gave design a legitimacy in a business, capitalist society context,” he explains.

Rodney’s politics and personal fortune took a huge upturn in the Eighties. He was quoted as being worth 40m and one of Britain’s 250 richest people. “Growth was spectacular. Margaret Thatcher engendered a spirit in the country which enabled all sorts of things, good and bad, to grow. I don’t regret the Eighties at all. I think that design came of age. The decline started when we continued to invest in the building in King’s Cross. We should have put a great big tarpaulin over it and stayed where we were until we could get a clearer picture of the depth of the recession. Had I done that I would not be here now and things would be very different.

Today they want me to be a designer in a garret – small-time, charge small fees, don’t raise my head above the parapet, don’t be flash, because it is not seemly for designers to do that. Designers are modest professionals who should enjoy a modest income and be content with their lot. I hate all that.

“I always felt that I had a mission in life to deliver to ordinary people better places to shop. I have little interest in Issey Miyake or haute couture design. The thing that really turns me on is working for Woolworth’s, Marks and Spencer and Boots stores – which touch everyone’s life.” This is indeed a noble calling.

He thinks the new company has kept him young. “It is a new kind of business – low cost, high technology, high productivity. Virtually everything I do I think of as a brand problem from the inside outwards. It is not enough to simply produce a new design formula without a concomitant commitment to the product.”

He has a joint operation called FMF in the US with a small and very lively modernist architectural practice, FM Associates, whose specialism is retail masterplanning. It designs the kind of huge shopping malls which Rodney has admired for so long. Indeed, it is about to design the biggest mall ever built in the world, some five million square feet – about ten times the size of Brent Cross. Rodney Fitch and Company will design some of the stores within it, create the brand positioning and design its identity.

The project, like much of Fitch’s activity nowadays, will be built in Asia, a region he adores. He operates in Hong Kong, Singapore, Bangkok, Jakarta and Manila, and is treated with the respect he feels he deserves. “Often the top people in business there already have my books on their shelves. They respect me and listen to me because of my status in the business.” He regrets that he does a pathetically small amount of work in the UK, hating the current perception “that unless you have green hair you are not a very good designer. If you were around in the Eighties you are somehow sullied or old hat. You don’t get that in Asia. There one is always dealing with the owner, whereas here one is always much lower down the chain”.

He is hugely optimistic about the future of design, if a trifle jaded at the return to poor fees in the UK. He foresees designers being much more “plugged in” to their clients, “becoming a sixth finger of their right hand, where clients come to rely on their consultants utterly”.

Rodney Fitch is living proof that you can’t keep a good man down. He is enjoying his new career and I reckon that Britain’s loss is Asia’s gain. Watch this space.


Richard Williams is founder and chairman of Williams Murray Hamm

 


 

Rodney Fitch died on 20 October following a battle with cancer. Most recently, he held a post as a Professor of retail design at TUDelft University in the Netherlands and ran consultancy Rodney Fitch Ltd.

Tim Greenhalgh, chairman and chief creative officer of Fitch, paid tribute to the consultancy’s founder: “Rodney was a truly great man and one whom we in the design community owe a great debt of gratitude. He was a creative visionary and one of the most charming men you could ever wish to meet. He created a culture for designers that has survived over the years  – one that celebrates endeavour and the desire to change the world for the better.

“Rodney believed strongly in customer-centric design (a term he never liked using) and hated customers being referred to as ‘punters’. He believed they deserved great respect, and importantly, great design. He saw things in the world of brand and retail that others simply missed and he had ways of expressing his ideas that people fell in love with.

“Rodney was a wonderful man, who was loved and will be greatly missed.”

D&AD, where Fitch served as President in 1984, has a lovely interview from 2011 here

Please use the comments space below to share your memories of Fitch. Tributes can also be left here

 

A Typical San Francisco Morning

Basé en Californie, Toby Harriman, photographe et fondateur de Planet Unicorn, a réalisé une vidéo intitulée « A Typical San Francisco Morning ». Avec un Canon 6D et depuis un hélicoptère Robinson R22, il a filmé ces incroyables prises de vue aériennes à San Francisco avec la brume qu’on lui connait au petit matin. Sur une composition de James Everingham, à voir.

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All over U

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Sample patterns from Melissa Watt's online portfolio.

Sample patterns from Melissa Watt’s online portfolio.

It is always nice to hear from readers and discover how the magazine inspires them in ways I couldn’t have imagined. Recently, Melissa Watts from the UK got in touch. She was one of the 100 artists included in the UPPERCASE Surface Pattern Design Guide earlier this year in issue #21.

Melissa writes, “I’d just like to thank you again for choosing me to be part of the Surface Pattern Guide earlier this year. You’ll be pleased to know that one of my three designs featured, has recently been purchased by a Belgium baby wear company, which is my first pattern sale and a big thrill for me (I haven’t actually properly launched myself as a pattern designer yet so it was a lovely bonus/surprise). They had actually seen the guide and kept me in mind for their A/W 15 range.”

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“Whilst I was learning surface pattern design earlier in the year, I was playing and experimenting a lot. It didn’t matter what it was—I would just play. This is where UPPERCASE came in. I had, at this point discovered your magazine and couldn’t help myself take your logo….and play!”

I’m so happy that UPPERCASE inspired Melissa to experiment… and led to her first licensed surface pattern.

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