Designing for Dirty Laundry

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As a professional organizer, I believe in having plenty of easy-to-use laundry hampers. Sometimes the reason the dirty clothes don’t make it into the laundry bin is that the bin is down the hall, not in the bedroom!

This laundry hamper from Simple Human has a lot going for it. The open top makes it easy to put things into the hamper. The double bags allow the end-users to sort darks vs. lights, or regular wash vs. dry cleaning. (Not everyone has room for a double-bag version, so Simple Human also provides a single-bag hamper.) And the bags are easy to remove from the frame and tote to the laundry room. Some end-users say they come off a bit too easily—coming loose when jostled by a vacuum cleaner, for example.

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Some end-users prefer to have a laundry hamper that isn’t so open—so the dirty laundry isn’t on display, so the cats can’t get into it quite so easily, etc. These Brabantia laundry bins accommodate that preference while allowing laundry to be placed in them without removing a lid. There’s a removable, washable laundry bag inside, and Brabanita sells replacement bags; that’s a nice way to protect the end-user’s investment in the bin in case the bag gets ripped or stained. There are plenty of ventilation holes in the bin, too.

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These laundry carts from Crate and Barrel and Restoration Hardware would suit an end-user who likes the super-easy-to-toss-into open look—and who has a laundry room down the hall from the bedroom or bathroom. With baskets that don’t go all the way to the floor, there’s no awkward reaching for laundry at the very bottom, but the a limited capacity.

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When an App Won’t Do: Designing a Timer

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Timers might not sound like an organizing product—but as a professional organizer, I recommend them to my clients all the time. They’re great for overcoming procrastination; end-users can set the timer for 15 minutes and do some dreaded task for just that amount of time. Or they might set the timer for 20 minutes and make sure, when it goes off, that they are still on task. And, of course, timers are useful when cooking and baking, or performing any task where keeping track of time is critical.

Yes, many of us carry timers around with us on our smartphones—but not all end-users have smart phones. And for some, the timer on a smartphone is harder to use than a physical timer. And do we want our smartphones exposed to liquids, grease and chemicals?

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Both this timer and the one above come from Zone Denmark. The spinning top timers catch your eye, but the other timer has the advantage of being magnetic, so you can stick it on a refrigerator door (unless the fridge is stainless steel). However, the websites for these timers leave me wondering about many crucial design issues, such as these: How long can the timer be set for? What does the timer sound like when it goes off? Does it tick as it counts down?

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This basic egg timer comes from Kuchenprofi, and a number of other companies have products that look similar. This one’s an hour-long timer, which is pretty common. The company says it has a long, loud ring, which is important. With the simple design, wiping it clean would be a snap. And it uses a mechanical movement, so no batteries are required.

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Here’s another mechanical timer with a simple design: the minitimer, designed by Richard Sapper for Terraillon. You’ll find this one in MoMA’s collection; it’s at the Brooklyn Museum, too. With this design, the remaining time is visible both from the side and the top.

Matthaeus Krenn had a red one, and he explained how to set the timer: “Twist the two red halves in oposite directions to load a spring on the inside. Then twist back to set the timer to the desired duration.” Sounds easy, right? But I wondered how this would work for someone with arthritis.

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Designing for Bikes Stored on Walls

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Bicycle owners with garages have an obvious place to store those bikes—but what about those without garages: apartment dwellers, etc.? Those end-users may want to store their bicycles in their living spaces, and they’ll want their bike racks to look good. Since floor space will probably be limited, wall racks have a lot of appeal.

Designers are recognizing the need, and addressing it in various ways. The Bike Shelf from Knife & Saw is designed to be installed into wall studs, and will leave only screw holes when removed—another consideration for those in rented spaces. The shelf gives you a bit of extra storage, although I wouldn’t put anything too fragile up there, since it seems like it would be easy to jostle things while putting the bike away. And one drawback which you’ll see in many designs: the shelf works well for top-tube bikes, but not for diagonal-tube bikes or step-through bikes.

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The Shelfie is an active Kickstarter project which has already met its funding goal. Juergen Beneke wanted a solution for all types of bikes, because he owns a range of them himself; he also wanted to avoid scratching the paint on the top tube and kinking the cables. The Shelfie addresses these concerns by using the seat to hang the bike. The storage compartment is large enough for a bike helmet, which is a considerate design touch—since the bike and helmet are used together, it’s helpful to store them together. Shelfie comes with anchors for sheetrock, wood and concrete/block—and a paper-template with the hole-pattern, to make pre-drilling the holes easy and accurate. My one concern here is how stable the bike is; will a rambunctious child or an earthquake cause it to tumble?

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The Bike All from Board by Design also uses the seat to hang the bike; it has hooks for hanging the end-user’s helmet, messenger bag, etc. The top shelf has a cut-out, allowing end-users to run the cord from a cell phone (or anything else) down to an outlet for charging. One concern: If one wheel rests on the floor, cleaning the floor becomes slightly more difficult than if the floor is left bare.

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Fluo makes wall-mounted bike hooks for a specific subset of bike owners: those who like minimal design, own a light sports bike (with a top tube), and have a wall that will work with its dowels. They’re suitable for walls made of brick, concrete and masonry, for those ready to break out the hammer drill; they will not work with drywall. This is another design that would make me nervous if children, pets or earthquakes were likely to disturb the bike.

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Designing an Umbrella Stand: Not as Easy as It Sounds

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Umbrella stands find a place in homes, offices, and retail establishments. They seem like such a straightforward item, but actually a number of design decisions come into play.

For example, let’s look at the Ombo umbrella stand from Com.p.ar, designed by Alberto Arter and Fabrizio Citton. It’s made from black lacquered steel, covered with regenerated leather—so it should wear well, but it’s definitely an inside-only item. And while it’s a beautiful design, it won’t work for people who use compact collapsible umbrellas rather than traditional full-sized ones.

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Compare that to the gorgeously curvy Narcisco umbrella stand from Tonin Casa, designed by Davide Bozzini. It’s made of powder-coated steel, and comes with a number of cautions [PDF]: don’t expose it to sunlight, don’t expose it to the elements if it’s kept outside, and watch out for “dangerous objects” which could cause scratching—not the umbrella stand for household with small children. This one is also intended for traditional umbrellas only.

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The Elic umbrella stand from Area Declic, designed by Antonio Lanzillo and Carlo Martinengo, is made from polyethylene produced by rotational molding. This is a super-practical design for end-users who aren’t opposed to plastics. It’s UV resistant, and OK for outdoor use. (But at only 8.8 pounds, and with a relatively high center of gravity, I wouldn’t leave it outside in high winds—although, polyethylene being shatter-proof, at least it wouldn’t break if it did fall over.) It has two spaces, one for short umbrellas and one for tall ones; if the end-user doesn’t have short umbrellas, the short compartment could certainly be used to stash something else.

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The Aki umbrella stand from B-Line, designed by Rodolfo Bonetto, is another one made from rotomolded polyethylene. It can be used indoors or out; as B-Line says, “It has no problem with water.” Since it’s only seven pounds, it’s another one I wouldn’t leave out in high winds—something we get a lot of in my part of the world.

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Designing for Cutting Cable Clutter, Part 1: Accessories

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You know those desks you see in magazines and on design sites—the immaculate ones with not a cable in sight? I don’t have a desk like that, and my clients don’t, either. We have laptops, whose power cables slither to the floor when we unplug them. My clients often have desks which don’t face the wall, so the unsightly tangle or pile of cords that might otherwise be somewhat hidden down the back is instead in clear view. And since most desk designs ignore the cable issue, we’re left to deal with it through various aftermarket products.

A number of those products are designed to ensure that cables not currently in use don’t slip to the floor. The one above is the MOS—the Magnetic Organization System. The magnets in the MOS will hold most cables in place, but there are also magnetic cable ties for any cables which need some help.

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The MOS itself is held in place by a layer of non-sticky micro-suction padding. If you’re designing (or using) a cable organizer, this might sound like the ideal way to affix your product to the desk—and in many cases, it is. Sewell even sells its AirStick tape, used in the MOS, as a separate product for other mounting uses. However, the MOS needs a clean, flat surface for that suction to work, and it won’t work on something like unfinished wood, which is porous and doesn’t allow the suction to form.

Also, think about the other materials you’re using, not just the connection method. For example, the aluminum MOS looks fantastic—until it gets scratched up by metal connections at the end of a power cord. (The MOS also comes in plastic.)

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The Bluelounge Cable Drops each hold a single cable. These attach to the desk with an adhesive, which means the drops cannot be repositioned—end-users will need to carefully consider where they want to attach them. Although Bluelounge provides instructions for removing the adhesive, people might still be hesitant about using this on an expensive desk or an antique one. And one more design consideration: These come in a variety of colors, including white—darker colors might be a better choice for a finish which can absorb dirt.

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Sumo, also from Bluelounge, is described as a paperweight for your cables. Like the MOS, it uses micro-suction pads to stay in place and can be repositioned as needed. There are two grooves underneath to help keep the cables in place. This raises another design issue: How large of a cable should the device accommodate? Some people have said larger cables don’t fit in the Sumo very well—but a product designed to accommodate larger cables might not grip smaller ones firmly enough.

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Designs for the Hanging of Things, Part 2: Coat Racks

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Do you (or your interior design clients) want an easy way to hang up coats, scarves, bags, towels, aprons and more? Then hooks are the way to go. And rather than getting multiple single hooks, you may want a wall-mounted rack that provides those multiple hooks in a single product.

The Eames Hang-It-All is the most well-known wall-mounted coat rack, but numerous other designs are worth some attention. The Leaf hanger from Miniforms is made from laser cut sheet steel. Each hanger has three hexagons, and each of those is a different distance from the wall, making it easier to use all three at the same time.

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Some hooks are designed to flip down for use—so there’s nothing rough for anyone to brush against when walking by. The Knox products from LoCa are a nice example of this style.

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Of course, you could go vertical as well as horizontal. Since the hooks are right on top of each other in this design, it may not work well for multiple long coats. But it could be just fine for a warm winter hat, a scarf and a coat—or various other combinations. To provide a lot of hooks in a small space, LoCa has an angled design with hooks on two sides.

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Designs for the Hanging of Things: Hooks, Part 1

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Hooks are one of my favorite organizing products—and my clients love them, too. It’s just easier to throw a coat over a hook than it is to put it on a hanger—and easy is good, since it increases the chance that the coat (or whatever) isn’t going to just get tossed on the floor. So hooks are worth considering for your own work spaces, as well as for end-users who may find them handy.

When I say “hook,” you may think of classic hook designs, such as this double hook and robe hook—which are both perfectly good and useful, but there’s no need to stop there. The opportunities for innovation within this basic form are nearly endless.

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For example, here’s the Kangaroo hook, cast of aluminum, designed for Cascando by Robert Bronwasser, in collaboration with Sander Brouwer.

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Or consider this CNC router-cut wall hook from Grain, made from a block of ash.

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Some hooks are designed for easy installation, without the need for sheetrock anchors, etc. (More on installation issues later.) Unihook from Pat Kim installs with a single nail—but due to its clever design, which spreads the load downwards along the wall from that one nail, it can hold an amazing 10 kilograms of weight (about 22 pounds).

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Designing for Knife Storage, Part 2: Beyond Knife Blocks and Wall Racks

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While knife blocks and wall racks work well for many kitchens, not everyone has the counter or wall space for these items—and people with pets or young children may not feel comfortable with some of those products. So how else can we solve the knife storage dilemma?

In my own kitchen, I store my knives in a drawer, using an in-drawer knife organizer—my cats get into almost everything, but they haven’t learned to open drawers. Of course, people with small children will need to ensure those children can’t reach (or open) the drawer.

The organizer above comes from Rev-A-Shelf; it’s designed to be trimmed, as needed, to fit various drawer sizes and to accommodate the number of knives needing to be stored.

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Designing for Knife Storage, Part 1: Blocks and Wall Racks

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When I work with clients to organize their kitchens, knife storage is one of the issues we tackle. Everyone has different needs and constraints—but fortunately, designers have given us numerous options to help meet those needs.

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The Toro Legno (Kitchen Bull) shown above is a fanciful item: a knife block with 10 slots, a book shelf and a cheese board. For those with the necessary countertop space, it could be a great way to keep multiple items close at hand—and that cheese board could perhaps serve as a cutting board, something most people are more likely to need quick access to. The Toro Legno is made from renewable plantation pine, which may appeal to end-users with ecological concerns.

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But let’s back up a minute, and start with the basics. The slanted, slotted knife block, so commonly used, has numerous advantages: It can store a lot of knives, it makes them easy to grab, and it will usually fit under the upper cabinets. Such blocks also tend to be heavy enough, with a low enough center of gravity, that they are unlikely to fall over. One disadvantage is the slots may not match the knives the end-user has, unless the knives were bought from the same manufacturer. Looking at knife blocks from some top name brands, you’ll see some variations. The 25-slot knife block from Wüsthof has rubberized feet to help keep it in position. The one from Henckels, on the right, uses horizontal rather than vertical slots for the steak knives, in order to allow the handles on all the company’s cutlery to fit.

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You can take the same basic design and give it a very different look, as Wüsthof does with this knife block.

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Bellerby & Co. Globes: Paper-Covered Balls That Will Leave You Breathless

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No matter how modern, chic or technologically-forward you may be, everyone loves maps. Innate sense of navigation, likelihood of travel, and taste in worldly-looking decor have little to do with it—we just like to see space laid out, made more understandable, even as we stand still. Maybe it’s a cultural value, the image of a globe carrying classy clout or educational nostalgia. Or maybe it’s biological, an animal instinct to get the highest ground and the best available intel. (For more ascientific theorizing on the mind ask me how I feel about infographics. Or knolling.)

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Whatever the rationalization, the behind-the-scenes look at the bespoke globes of Bellerby & Co. triggered my own love of old maps. According to founder Peter Bellerby, desk globes are still in incredibly high demand, but until his arrival on the scene, only one other company was making them (or at least by hand) as well. Bellerby started out in 2008 by trying to make a globe for his father’s birthday (hey, how hard could it be?) and wound up spending over a year (and every subsequent year) working out the kinks in the incredibly labor-intensive process. His accidental move into the odd niche was apparently well worth the effort—their fans now include Martin Scorsese and the Royal Geographic Society.

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